This post is in partnership with Murphy-Goode Winery.

I don't think any gift you can purchase can ever really capture the way you feel about your dad. It's just too complex a relationship; the feelings run too deep. But you can buy something that shows you know him, know what his interests are, and took the time to get him a gift you thought would matter to him. That's what we're here to help with. This guide contains all the stuff we'd want to get (or give) for Father's Day, with items for every budget and price range. Whether you're buying for your own parent, your spouse or partner, or making a wish list for yourself, we think it'll make your job a little easier this year, and hope everyone ends up with something they treasure.    

Let's get started the same way most guys start their day ... with coffee! 

1. A Truly Great Coffee Mug - $30-50:  A mug is a textbook Father's Day gift. Our vote? Skip out on the "World's Greatest Dad" or Sunday funnies characters and get something thrown by a real ceramicist. There is amazing pottery coming out of cities all over the US right now. Find dad one that will evoke deep envy from everyone in the office break room. (Pictured: Mazama Large Mug, $42)

2. Wood Handled Carpenter's Axe - Around $60: If you try to get an axe at your local home center, you'll find nothing but plastic and fiberglass handles with dull, poor-quality steel heads. This carpenter's style axe is modeled after the classic Hudson Bay design. It's not designed for felling huge trees, but works well for woodworking tasks like splitting, riving, as well as small forestry work such as trimming limbs, branches, and cross cutting. Makes a great first high-quality tool.

More interested in chopping logs into usable firewood or felling trees with speed? Check out the Splitting Maul and Multipurpose Axe from the same series.

3. Timex Weekender Chronograph Slip-Thru Strap Watch - $40-45: The watch is a standard dad gift, but high end pieces often cost a bit much for your average Dad's Day budget. Instead, go with a model designed not for the boardroom, but, as the name suggests, the off-hours. The Weekender Chronograph features classic styling with easily interchangeable bands to match a variety of looks. That's a whole buncha' watch for around $40. 

4. The Godfather Collection: The Coppola Restoration on Blu Ray - From $25: There are only a handful of films that - no matter what you're doing - you're compelled to stop and watch when they're on television. The Godfather trilogy tops that list, but now that you own it, you don't have to wait for the broadcast. Part III aside, it's truly some of the all-time greatest American filmmaking. Plus - the extras on this thing are outstanding. 

5. Really Nice Meat & Cheese Board - Starting at $30: Good charcuterie deserves good presentation. High-quality apps and snacks simply look better on a big slab of walnut than they do on a dinner plate. This piece gets you rich wood grain and a renewable, sandable surface without breaking the bank.  

6. Good Clean Fun by Nick Offerman - $20: Equal parts creativity manifesto, humorous essays, and woodworking how-to, Offerman's latest book leaves you laughing, inspired, and ready to make something.

7. Hay Bullet Pen - Under $8: Carry a piece of modern Scandinavian design with you wherever you go. Sleek and weighted just right, this thing is in the MoMA, so you know they got something right. Thankfully, its price won't make you too scared to actually use it.

8. Low-angle block plane - $165: When you're ready to move up from hammer, nails, and 2x4s to finer work, your first hand tool should be a low-angle block plane. With a sharp blade, this thing will trim end grain, smooth surfaces, clean up machining marks, and help create a beautiful finish on your final project. The made in the US model from Lie-Nielsen is worth the price, and will last for generations.

9. A bunch of iPhone cables - Starting at $6.00: A gift that no one would probably buy for themselves, but every single person will delight in opening. These magical talismen work like gold currency around a house or office shared with others. Get enough to keep one in every room, and a few secret options just in case.

10. Tartine Bread by Chad Robertson - $22-25: A complete (and we mean complete) guide from the man considered the be the best bread maker in the country. Learn to turn out crackling crusts full of color that give way to bread so flavorful you won't believe it's just flour, salt, water, and yeast. 

11. The Ultimate Grilling Supplies Kit:  Around this time of year, fancy boxes full of very large grilling tools with seemingly classy wood handles pop up to entice Father's Day gift buyers as an easy, all-in-one option. And, inevitably, they suck. Instead, assemble your own grilling kit using well-reviewed and time-tested utensils, no juice-spilling fork need apply.

• OXO Good Grips 16-Inch Locking Tongs
• Weber 6620 Original Spatula
• Lavatools PT12 Javelin Digital Instant Read Meat Thermometer 
• Weber 6494 12-Inch 3-Sided Grill Brush
• Rapidfire Chimney Charcoal Starter

12. Yarai Mixing Glass ($33) and Barspoon ($25): Cocktails containing all spirits - like a martini, Negroni, Gibson, Boulevardier - are best stirred with ice to maintain a clear, cold, heavy texture. The Japanese-style Yarai is the key to ice-cold perfection.  

13. Leather Moleskin Notebook Cover -  from $25: This is the best of both worlds. The high-quality and style points of a leather-bound notebook, with the flexibility of replaceable inserts to keep it useful for years. Handmade from Horween Leather tanned in Chicago.

14. The Murphy-Goode Wine Club - Nothing's better than a gift that keeps on giving. Receive quarterly shipments of both your favorites and something new to try, all at a 20% discount. Membership features to-your-door delivery and special club member offers you simply can't access any other way.

15. Bob Dylan: All the Songs - the Story Behind Every Track by Philippe Margotin and Jean-Michel Guesdon - Around $34: The authoritative guide to every single piece by one of America's greatest songwriters. Keep it open while playing the albums, and it enhances every listening experience. 

16. Classic Cash Money Clip - from $9.99: Next time you go out on the town, leave the pocket pillow at home and throw a few essential cards and bills in this simple stainless money clip. Fits beautifully in a jacket pocket, and is affordable enough that you can be both a wallet and a money clip guy, whichever the occasion calls for.  

17. Narex Chisel Set - Around $40: Kept sharp, a quality set of chisels can go a long way and open up possibilities for projects in the workshop or around the house. The Narex line from Czechoslovakia offer the perfect balance between performance and value, and, when well cared for, will hold an edge beautifully and tackle anything you throw at them. 

18. Wilderness Survival by Gregory J. Davenport - $18-20: A no-nonsense guide to staying alive in the woods, period. Clear, concise, solidly illustrated, Davenport explains the "why" along with the "how," so you can actually remember this stuff when the time comes.

19. Aeropress Coffee & Espresso Maker (About $30) and Stainless Filter ($8-12): Giving a gift to a coffee guy? If dad is ready to move on from the automatic drip machine and has already mastered the French Press, help him step up his game with the ingeniously designed Aeropress. This piece of innovation uses air pressure to create exceedingly smooth and flavorful coffee, and it's the closest you can get to a rich espresso crema at home without spending hundreds or thousands of dollars. We like the washable stainless filter for ease, and together, they create the perfect travel coffee option.

20. Orbit Basic Turntable - $179: If you're looking for a splurge-level gift he just won't buy for himself, our vote is cast for this stylish turntable. In the era of streaming apps and having any song you want available in an instant, buying actual physical albums allows music to be special again.  

21. Style and the Man by Alan Flusser - Around $7:This quote from Ralph Lauren tells you everything you need to know. “Alan Flusser is one of the most knowledgeable experts on men’s fashion, and has created the ultimate reference for everything you need to know about good taste, great style, and where to find it throughout the world.” Done. 

22. Eighteen Bottle Stackable Wine Rack - Starting at $30: We don't know when the wine rack got so complicated. Wine racks are not decor, they're a tool for organizing. They only need to do one thing: store wine on its side so the cork stays saturated and won't spoil the wine. This simple rack holds up to 18 bottles, which is exactly enough. And if it's not, they stack or attach side-to-side to easily expand your collection.  

23. 50-Piece Mini HSS Drill Bit Set - About $20: Look in any multi-piece drill bit set, and you'll likely notice one thing: all the smallest sizes are missing. These are the ones we use most, and they break, disappear, and become worn out. This box gives you ten of each of the smallest sizes so you have what you need, when you need it.

24. Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn - Around $25: A truly complete guide to all things meatcraft. Ruhlman and Polcyn look at centuries of traditions, and come up with legitimate and accessible techniques to making them at home. If you've ever wondered what to do with a certain cut, this book will tell you. 

25. Yuma Woven Tie - $20: There is no more iconic Father's Day gift than a tie. Which, if you do it right, is fine by us. Lately, we're digging the tie that gets its subtle character not from pattern, but texture. The complex weave brings tons of contrast and visual interest, and will look great with darn near anything.  

26. Norwegian Wood: Chopping, Stacking, and Drying Wood the Scandinavian Way by Lars Mytting - Around $18: If you're wondering whether you can fill an entire book with engaging ideas about firewood, the answer is a resounding yes. In fact, this is one of our favorite items on the list. There is serious history and tradition here, and the workmanship is undeniable. Seriously, give this one a shot. 

27. Merkur Classic Straight Safety Razor - Starting at $20: If you or the dad in your life is still using the cartridge razor — seriously, it's time to move on. The classic safety razor is miles more affordable, provides a better, more controlled shaving experience, and, frankly, looks way better sitting on your vanity. Only drawback - you can't take it through airport security, but it's worth it the other eleven and half months of the year.  

28. DKnight MagicBox II Bluetooth 4.0 Portable Wireless speaker - About $30: We're not calling it a "beater" speaker, but sometimes, you need a model that isn't designed to sit on a shelf and fill your entire home with high-fidelity sound. Instead, it's a rugged option that moves easily among rooms, can be tossed in the car for a camping or beach trip, and can stand up to falling on the floor. Get the black so fingerprints full of grease and dirt won't show and you can bring along the tunes wherever your projects or adventures take you.

29. Wine Aerator - $10-12: It's a scientific fact: wine tastes better as it interacts with the air. It might sound a little pinky-in-the-air, but reds really do need to "breathe" in order to show their full potential. The easiest way is to incorporate oxygen right as it comes out of the bottle with a simple aerator. Ten dollars very well spent.

30. Cabin Porn: Inspiration for Your Quiet Place Somewhere by Zach Klein - Around $23: The title is a little regrettable, but the images here are simply stunning. When you're stuck inside and need to imagine yourself someplace else, this will do it. 

31. Real Old Fashioned Fly Swatter - $8: When did finding a fly swatter that actually works become so complicated? This model from Garrett Wade harkens back to the glory days of summer, before plastic handles and terrible design. Built to last, and licensed to swat.

32. Classic Coleman Cooler - From $60: There are coolers, and there is the Coleman cooler. Nothing says guy on a weekend camping trip like one of these. Bonus: makes a mighty fine impromptu seat for roasting food on sticks over a fire. Accept no substitutes.  

33. Calvin and Hobbes Complete Collection - Around $60:  Hands down, undeniably and without question, the best comic strip of all time. Features four full-color volumes in a display case, this best-selling edition includes all Calvin and Hobbes cartoons that ever appeared in syndication. 

34. Dozuki Japanese pull saw - Starting at $28:  An extremely elegant and useful tool at an incredible price. Handsaws go where machines can't, and can cut precision joinery like dovetails. The thin kerf makes it easier to move through wood, and feature an easily replaceable blade for when the teeth wear out.  

35. Wall-Mounted Bottle Opener - $5 and up: Perhaps not super strong as a standalone gift, but it makes a nice little bonus or part of a set. Why? Cause these things are crazy useful. They stay put, and that way, you always know where your bottle opener is. Always.  Go for a stainless-steel model so it can be mounted outside. 

36. The Artful Wooden Spoon by Joshua Vogel - Around $18: Equal parts coffee table art book and practical how-to guide, this book expresses the elegance of what a felled tree can become. Essential reading for anyone interested in working with wood.  

37. Readywares Wax Utility Apron - Starting at $33: If you, or your dad, are the kind of guys who read a site like ManMade, you're the kind of guy who makes messes. A standard all-purpose apron works for grilling, carpentry, leather working, bike maintenance, woodworking, cooking, cocktail mixing, painting, blacksmithing, or whatever task you take on. Heavy duty waxed canvas and brass hardware means it will stand up to the task.  

38. Leatherman Rev - About $30: No tool can do everything, but for something that can fit in your pocket, a Leatherman gets pretty close. We love the Rev for it's balance - the tools are big enough to be useful, but the whole thing folds down and remains light enough to carry every day. It's fourteen tools include: needle nose pliers, regular pliers, hard-wire cutters, wire cutters, wire stripper, 420HC knife, package opener, ruler (1.5 in | 3.8 cm), can opener, bottle opener, wood/metal file, Phillips screwdriver, medium screwdriver, and small screwdriver.

39. Meat: Everything You Need to Know by Pat LaFrieda - Around $25: Literally, everything you need to know. The country's most famous butcher dives deep into creating recipes that showcase the value and potential of the cut, including beef, pork, poultry, lamb, and veal. Sharpen your knives, and go. 

40. Stainless Steel Measuring Jigger - About $7:  So long, old-school fill-to-the-top cocktail measuring tools. With its simple pour spout, easy-to-read (and not spill) gradations, there's no better way to measure your portions accurately.

42. Spoon Carving Knives - Morakniv 162 and 120: Carving a wooden spoon or kitchen utensil is about as satisfying a woodworking project as there is. It's practical, open to all kinds of design choices, and clean enough that you can do it while sitting on the sofa. The best part, you only need two simple knives to get started: the straight carving, or sloyd, knife for the outer shape, and the hook for the middle. The Mora series are high-quality, affordable, and the standard place to start.

I hope you found something on this list you think your dad (spouse, brother, grandpa, etc.) will love. Still, I know there are probably a hundred other great gift ideas I didn't think of. What the most amazing, impressive, unique, or thoughtful gift you've ever given or received? What's the World's Best Gift for the World's Best Dad? Let me know in the comments (and who knows ... maybe we'll update our list!). 

Happy Father's Day, guys!

This post is sponsored by Murphy-Goode, but all opinions are mine alone. We like working with them because they care about the same things we do: bringing people together over great food and good wine. Thanks for supporting the brands that make ManMade possible.

My name is Bryson and I have a problem. Whenever I find myself in a hardware store I have a list and I have a second list. On that second, unwritten list, are the things I always tell myself I need for my shop and I inevitably walk out with a bag full of it. I'm always telling myself "Well, ya can't have too many of these!" Here's my short list of seven things I just can't seem to live without and for good reason.

Painter’s Tape

I can’t get enough of this blue stuff. I use it for all kinds of random things. Labeling, highly visible line marking and temporary holds of random things. I use this tape the most as temporary joinery when I build boxes. Take all four sides and tape the ends together and roll up into a box shape. It’s the best way to see if my joints are cut perfectly.

Note: another tape I love is gaffer’s tape. It’s used heavily in the entertainment industry for it’s strength and adhesive that doesn’t leave residue. Think of it like better duct tape—Yea, I sad it. 

Deck Screws
A lot of people use drywall screws as their everyday use fasteners, but I’ve found the threads to be too sharp and have cut myself several times digging into my pocket for a screw. I pay a little more for self-tapping ones too, no drill bits required! I finish projects faster and the tan color blends in better than black.

Clamps
It goes without saying, really, that you can’t have enough clamps. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve worked up a storm in the shop with 3 random things on the gluing table and I get a wild idea to start on another project that takes 5 more clamps. Go ahead and just budget each month for clamps of all sizes and shapes.

Plywood Scraps

I really don’t toss out any scraps, call me a hoarder if you will, but I certainly don’t toss out plywood scraps. I use them to comp out new ideas, as notepads to write on and perhaps the most important use, to make jigs. All of my templates and jigs are made from Frankensteined plywood pieces.

Rags
Got a bunch of old shirts you don’t want anymore? Then you got yourself a new bucket of shop rags. I keep a running pile in a box that I toss any rag or blanket or shirt I’m through with in the house.  You can even divide them up in sections, flannels for buffing a nice finish, t-shirts for stain application and towels for mess clean up. I only recommend sorting if you have tons of space, unlike me.

Glues
I keep 4 kinds of glue on hand (but not on my hands) in my shop. Wood glue, super glue, epoxy resin and pasty super glue. Each of them works well for their respective projects. It’s never fun when you get started on a project, need glue, and are completely out. Whenever I’m getting low, I double restock. 

Ear and Eye Protection
This one seems pretty obvious. The main reason I keep a large pack of the ear plugs is for my friends that like to come over and pitch in! Most of them aren't as into building as I am, so they usually don't bring anything with them. Having extra protection handy is always a good thing.

There you have it, these are the things I hoard like a doomsday prepper. So far, my wife hasn't said anything about it. haha! What items do you keep stocked in your workshop pantry?

Giving a handmade gift is always better than a mass manufactured one. Whether you make it yourself or support a local artisan, craftsman or favorite Etsy shop, giving something that can't be found in a big box store not only shares an element of care, but of legit surprise.

But do you know what we love even more than giving something handmade? Empowering the recipient to make something themselves. So, this Father's Day, give the gift of DIY with this simple and stylish leather coaster gift kit.     

I created this how-to as part of our ongoing branded partnership with Murphy-Goode winery this Father's Day. I show you how to gather the simple materials, create instructions, and craft the coasters themselves. This is a super simple leatherworking project that doesn't require any specialized tools, and can be completed in under an hour. 

So, grab a craft knife, a few glasses, and head over to the Murphy-Goode blog for the full instructions: 

Father's Day Gift Kit: DIY Leather Coasters

When you're new to the world of DIY, starting even the smallest of projects can be a daunting task. How much money will it cost me? How much time will I waste? Do I even know what I'm doing? Questions like these can easily deflate a well planned weekend of hard work when you're not comfortable with yourself and your abilities. 

The secret to the rising popularity of DIY-ing lies within the drug-like reward factor of a finished project. Once you get started, you'll find that you cannot get enough of that "job well done" feeling. But getting to the reward requires a lot of self motivation and discipline. When you can conquer your fears of screwing up and wasting your precious time, you will find that making things for yourself doesn't take much effort at all. Joy has a way of making challenges a heck of a lot of fun!

Next time you find yourself in a challenging spot and you're close to calling it quits, remember 5 DIY Zen Tips to help get you back on track.

1. Fail Faster You may have heard this before, and a lot, but failing is the biggest catalyst for growth. Every time you mess up, it's an opportunity to challenge yourself to do better the next time. Did you get the wrong pipe size for the kitchen drain? You'll learn to double check your measurements before head out for supplies. Thought you didn't need that one tool to fix your problem? Now you own three of them. The faster you give into failure, see it as great opportunity, the faster you grow.

2. Wear a Uniform You've probably heard stories of authors who like to eat the same thing everyday for lunch or an artist that can only paint when listening to a specific kind of music. These "quirks" are a person's uniform; they help to get into the working mindset. If you find that you can't seem to focus on a project as long as you'd like because of non-work distractions, try on a uniform of some sort. Maybe your uniform is a favorite song, familiar reading glasses or a well-used pair of work pants. For me, it's my work apron. I don't always need it but it kicks my brain in gear to get stuff done. Plus, there are no pockets for a distracting phone in my apron! 

3. Break Things Whenever someone asks me how I know so much about so many random things, I usually reply with, "I love to break stuff." And it's totally true. I love to pull things apart, to dig and inspect every little thing–even if I have no idea what the heck I'm looking at. Do I break some really expensive stuff? Absolutely. It's certainly not fun to do that, but you can bet I won't do that again! Every broken thing is a lesson learned and a step further away from risk aversion. When you are comfortable with breaking things then you're comfortable with taking risks and trying new things. You can't drive a car or wash dishes without the risk of breaking something–so you've come that far–keep going! Maybe dissemble your stereo or try to replace your breaks and rotors on your car. Take it all apart and put it back, just to see what happens. You'll be surprised to see how so many unrelated things are all built the same way! Pretty soon you'll be tuning engines and programming computers at the same time! The true secret to success in doing anything yourself is eliminating the fear of breaking things. 

4. Time Boxes Letting time slip away from you on a weekend project is easy to do. Sometimes, estimating the time a project could take is enough to keep you from starting it at all. So, if you ever cannot stop obsessing over a new project you have in mind give yourself a set amount of time to at least get started on it. Want to build a new bookshelf? Give yourself an hour to mark and cut the boards you need then give yourself another hour tomorrow. Avoiding a project because it will take too long is a great way to never get anything done. 

5. Ask for Help This one should go without saying. Go ahead and get yourself comfortable with asking for help from experts, the internet or people who are just barely more familiar with something than you are. If anything, you create a climate for brainstorming and collaboration that will ultimately yield better results. Find a stack of books you trust on the subjects you like or a YouTube channel that provides steady instruction. Sometimes a phone number of a wise, close friend can be the most valuable tool in your box.

Hopefully, these five things will inspire you to keep going and improving yourself and your work. Pretty soon, you'll see every need in your home, card (or your life, really) as a new challenge that's yet to be conquered.

What are some things you wish someone else told you as you got started?

Saws are exciting, and chisels and hand planes look really great on top of your workbench. But if you ask me, the number one most-important, guaranteed tool I use on every single project is: the No. 2 pencil.

It's essential for everything from sketching to measuring to layout and marking parts, and its "easy to remove" nature makes it perfect for seeing now, disappearing later. Except, have you ever actually tried to remove pencil from wood before applying a finish?   

Erasers did not get the memo that they should work on wood. Using sandpaper is time consuming and results in creating dents and valleys, potentially ruining veneer on something like plywood. I've heard that nail polish remover (acetone) works, but I've never had much success with it. What actually works as a liquid eraser is...

Denatured alcohol. Sold in hardware stores and home centers with the paint and wood stains, it's only about $6-8 a can. As long as you keep the top on it to prevent it from evaporating, it will last forever.

To use it to remove pencil marks, simply place some on clean rag, and apply it to the wood. It's not a simple wipe-away process; you'll have to rub a bit and create some friction. So, just concentrate on one small area at a time. 

But, in a couple of seconds, the pencil marks will disappear, and after a minute or so, the alcohol will evaporate. If you do have a little ghosting left, then you can take a couple swipes with some 220-grit sandpaper to clean everything up.

Done. Moving on to the next step in your project...

Point blank: life is too short to do something you hate. The core of me believes that, but, when things get tough, I forget. All jobs trade our hours for dollars. But we must strive to do more than just survive.  

"Whatever you are, Be a good one."

- William Makepeace Thackeray

I figured out a secret a while ago. It was interesting that it sat right there in the open, in the aisles, but it took several months before I was able to notice it. I was working retail at a large department store, stocking shelves and learning quickly how much I hated the way customers could treat the "help". It was rough, draining, thankless work, and that meager paycheck was all that kept me coming back. I was surviving, but that was about it. Strangely, even in this cesspool of disgruntled humanity, I found some of my co-workers that were more than surviving.  They were happy, engaging, and seemed to thrive even when things got a bit rough. They also seemed to be the first to succeed, to get the easier shifts, the step up in position, luck just seemed to be attracted to them and that unnatural happiness.

So, what was their secret? What made the difference in their lives?

If you give your best in any position you're in, luck will definitely find you faster. That's really it, whether you're pumping toilets or painting a warehouse today, in this moment you can give your best - and that matters. What does your best look like? Probably 20% more than you can get away with. It's a bit cleaner, faster, more efficient. It's done happily, gratefully, and with the full weight of your attention. It's demonstrating that you care about your work.

I know this sounds like wishful motivational speaker boilerplate, but I'm dead serious and I know it works. I went from simple stockboy to sales in a few weeks, and up to management offers within a few months. I gained a reputation that landed me another, better job, and everywhere I worked the same thing happened. Once I realized that no matter where I was and that my best was the only option I couldn't believe how easy it was to stand out and move up to things I actually did start loving.

So if you hate it, but its what you're going to be doing for the time being, it's not the "what" that should change, but the "how." If you hate your responsibilities, and you can't change them for the time being, then change the other part - stop hating it. 

So, I challenge you today to commit to always making those hours you're trading count. This may not be the job you love, but you're here right now and you might as well make it really count.

A few weeks ago, we had a couple of friends over for dinner, and the husband joined me in the kitchen as I was finishing up some carrots I'd blackened and blistered then finished in the oven.

"Oh, you like your cast iron skillet?" he asked.

"Like it?" I replied. "I have three of them, and I use 'em as much as possible."

He was a little surprised at my response, and me by his. He'd said he and his wife had registered for both a large skillet and a dutch oven for their wedding, and received both. But once they got them home and unboxed, they could really figure out how to season them, how to clean them, or how to care for them. This, of course, broke my heart a bit, and I vowed that if he brought them over sometime, I'd help him get them ready to go, and show him what they could do.

So, whether you're just getting started in the wonderful, flavorful world of cast iron, or you'd like to move beyond special occassion meals and use these as your daily cookware, there's just a few things you should know, and keep around, for smooth, non-stick, generation-lasting success.      

1. The skillet:  Obviously, if you don't have one, you're going to need one. Truthfully, I prefer buying used cast iron cookware from vintage shops and flea markets. Made in the heyday of this style of cookware, older skillets are made from super high-quality ore from Pennsylvania, West Virginia, and my own homestate of Ohio, cast into the right shape, and then, most importantly, ground down on the inside for a much smoother cooking surface. Brands like Griswold, Vollrath, and Wagner are the king here.

But, there's nothing wrong with starting with a new skillet either. You could spring for the very high-end Finex from Portland, OR, or simply go with the standard: a pre-seasoned 12" skillet from Lodge. Once you've got a larger model, consider a medium as well; I find I use my 8" and 10" models most of the time when cooking for two people. (There's a chance it's actually because they're on top of the stack in my pantry).

ManMade Recommended: Lodge 12-inch Cast Iron Skillet

2. Flaxseed Oil: There are several ways to season a skillet: lard, vegetable shortening, beef tallow, etc. By the recent work of scientists and extensive testing recommends something the early cast iron users wouldn't have had access to in the kitchen: food-grade flax oil. It creates an extremely secure bond with the metal, resulting in non-stick layer that can stand up to anything. There's no reason to use anything else. 

ManMade Recommended:  Puritan's Pride Organic Flaxseed Oil

3. Kosher Salt: A lot of the mystery surrounding cast iron revolves around: if you can't use soap, how do you get the stuck on food and oil out? The answer: you abrade it away. A tablespoon or so of coarse salt and a paper towel will remove almost all the crusty bits and absorb any remaining oil, especially if you can attack it while the pan is still warm and the drippings liquid. A quick rinse in water, and you're ready to dry and oil and put it away until next time. 

ManMade Recommended:  Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt, 3 lbs

4. Stainless Steel Cast Iron Scrubber: You can use a nylon bristle brush or sponge on cast iron without harming the surface, but, as anyone who's ever done it can attest, it will become black with iron and likely saturated with grease and little bits without soap.

The answer: chain mail. This brilliant little $15 device is a stainless steel wash cloth that will help your pan become spick and span, and look just as fresh after a rinse. If it gets particularly built-up, just toss it in the dishwasher.

ManMade Recommended: The Ringer - The Original Stainless Steel Cast Iron Cleaner

5. Wooden Utensils, Turners, Spatulas, Etc. - You can use metal on a well-seasoned skillet without ruining the surface, but you don't have to. I've been using the same set of bamboo utensils and a pair of tongs on every pan I have - iron, steel, copper, and non-stick, for ten years, and I don't prefer anything else. Use what you have, or grab a totally affordable set online. 

6. Handle mitts: In my kitchen, these serve two purposes. First, they help protect your hand when moving a skillet out of the oven. Secondly, and somewhat related, they serve as a reminder to you and anyone else in your home that the handle of that pan is hot, and should not be grabbed without protection. Love them; use them daily. 

ManMade Recommended: Lodge Striped Hot Handle Holders/Mitts, Set of 2

7. Heavy-duty Trivets: One of cast irons greatest strengths is it's ability to go from oven or stovetop directly to the table for serving. To protect the table, I like to use at thick trivets, and sometimes I'll double them up. I like these simple round cork ones from IKEA, but you can use whatever you have around. Just make sure the pan is at least 1/2" off the table to prevent heat from potentially damaging the finish.

Bonus: Infrared Thermometer: This is by no means necessary, but it's a fun tool that can help you turn out better tasting food. It's a simply a thermometer that takes the temperatures of any surface via a laser, and I love mine. The model shown is a Kintrex I received for Christmas five or six years ago, but here's a simple sub $20 version that should work just fine. 

There you go. No mystery, no magic. Just some simple tools, and a little attention to detail. Now go cook something amazing. 

Like this post? Please share it on Pinterest!

Hi, my name is Chris, and I'm a hopeless process nerd. Especially when that process is captured in a video with such amazing colors, sound, and cinematography.       

Filmmaker Nick Bennett visited  Welsh ceramicists James and Tilla Waters in their Carmarthenshire studio. He says, 

Mission accomplished, says we. Watch below: 

Turns out, getting fully outfitted is only half the battle. Once you've selected all your gear, it's important to pack it up right for both balance and ease when carrying and access when you need it.     

Appropriately, Backpacker magazine has the low-down in a helpful video. There, Deputy Editor Casey Lyons shows you how to stash and store all your equipment for a more comfortable hike, putting the weight where you need it so you're set up for success. 

Check out the original article for all the details: How to Pack a Backpack [Backpacker.com] 

A few weeks ago I got a text from a buddy. He had just moved and was setting up the new house. He told me "I think this time around I want to make sure my sword has a place."  By his sword, he meant his 1865 Union Artillery Saber that had been with him since the 1st grade. (Talk about high expectations when the parents give you a sword at age nine). But the issue was that he didn't have a good way to display it, and the  cheaply made, $30 online holders just didn't seem fitting. That's why he called me up, and asked if I could help. I gladly accepted the challenge, and came up with this beast. Here's how I did it.    First, let's think about where this saber had been. Stationed somewhere near black powder, iron, and a lot of noise. I wanted a design that would fit that feeling, and maybe look like it could have been there. A quick search gave me this incredible glimpse of history: 

Metal. Metal with rivets, stains and patina, all wrapped up in a solid battlefield style. I wanted this to look like it could have been out there on the battlefield somewhere too. So, I drew up a full-sized plan on butcher paper and started to hash out the details. 

Once the idea was formed, I started with the sides. I began cutting out sheet metal and shaping small pieces of flat bar to fit. The sloppy welds had to be ground down and polished (I know, I'm not a welder yet, still just a grinder), but the shape took form fast. To get the patina I wanted, I heated all the metal pieces up past blue and let cool for a weathered look. It gave a good uniform color, but It didn't turn out as dark as I wanted. So I gave it a further finish and patina at the end.

The frame and sides were easy to shape with a grinder and various wheels, along with a few files for the finer details.

Adding the bulk of the sheet metal for the center needed some work with my new metal break, which made clean creases at all the right folds. 

All of the interior sheet metal was inserted in and secured with tack welds. I hammered the metal to give it a bit of an uneven weathered look.

After everything was secured, the drilling began. Holes were drilled through the supports and the sheet metal.

The rivets were 16 penny nails trimmed down and shaped, then inserted in and pounded flush. This resulted in a very secure hold, but also broke a few of my welds in the process. A few sparks and some grinding made them whole again.

Once the rivets were in place, the sword and scabbard holders were welded on... 

...then cut to hold the pieces securely in place. This took some trial and error, but in the end the parts nestled in tightly and held firm. 

At this point, I added a layer of hammered paint to make everything consistent, then roughed up with some steel wool.

To protect the metal of the sword and scabbard, I added a spray-on layer of rubber coating where the parts rest. This also helped provide a bit of extra grip.

The final finish was completed using a spray of vinegar and salt mix, which sat for 3 hours until it was rinsed with hydrogen peroxide. This accelerated the oxidation of the metal for a really aged look that made it really pop.

The liquid rust focused in the crevices and under the rivets, for an exceptional texture that blended with the 150 year old patina on the scabbard.

 I finished it off with an oak base stained dark, which helped to level it off and give it some heft.

 Overall, this is exactly the type of holder a piece of history like this deserves. It's solid, well-worn, and just seems to fit. Now this sword is going to finally have a place in the study.

If you’re like me your DIY obsession can get so out of hand you have to start selling your stuff to fund more stuff! One of the ways my wife and I do it is setting up a booth at local festivals, barn sales and craft fairs. With a little bit of business savvy and DIY ingenuity, you too can start turning a profit on your passions.

Consider Your Investment
As you’re doing research on what fair or festival to do, count the cost of things like booth fees, ticket costs (if any), travel and food. After adding up all those costs make sure you have or make enough product to exceed those costs. If you all of those factors turn out to be a worthy investment for you then you’re ready to apply for a booth!

Start Small

If you've never done a booth before, consider doing smaller, cheaper events. I got my start in local school gyms and church parking lots. After a couple of small events you could start applying for larger, more popular shows. As you grow, start to invest in things like a pop-up tent (about $125), folding tables and other booth props and displays. The better your booth looks the more likely the juries of larger shows will approve your applications. 

Assess The Event
Before you pay any money for a booth fee, make sure you know the audience of the event, last year’s attendance, what kind of marketing the organizers are generating, how many days the market will run and the season when the market is held (Spring, Fall and Christmas usually are the best times). Factors like these will help you gauge whether or not the fair will be worth your time. You definitely don’t want to be a welder selling iron at the inaugural quilting show in the middle of nowhere.

Decorate Your Space
Depending on what it is you like to sell, you’ll definitely want to add some interest and appeal to your booth to entice buyers to check out your work. Adding common items around the things you sell help the buyer visualize your product in their home. I sell a lot of woodworking so I stack my plates and boxes on top of small crates and vintage linens to offset the brown of the wood with a nice creamy white. In the above picture, I filled some of my vases with flowers, set it on a handmade tray on top of an industrial chair flanked with old books and a tea cup. 

Over-communicate Your Products
Asking “how much is this?” Isn’t a favorite phrase for most shoppers. When they can see the price easily they are more likely to make a purchase. Upgrade your price tags from a sticker to a hand written paper tag or small chalkboards next to large item for a really nice handmade touch. It’s also a good idea to make some signs that have your business name and craft. If you make wood bowls, hang a chalkboard sign that says “handmade wood bowls” This will make it easier for shoppers to see what you have to sell at a distance.

Stock Up On The Smalls

If a lot of your DIY inventory is expensive furniture or home decor, consider spending some time making some sub $20 products. If someone comes to your booth and sees that everything is over $100 but they really want to buy something from you, they’re going to reach for some of the small things you have to offer instead. For example, i mostly make furniture and carved plates but most customers don’t have 75-300 to spend on me. So I started making simple flower vases and matchstick boxes to sell alongside my finer things.

Be Friendly But Not Too Friendly

Always be checking the temperature of the room when your visitors come into your booth. Give them a simple greeting but don’t press for too much small talk unless you can sense that they are genuinely curious of your wares. I’ve scared away too many people by being too friendly. Just think about how you’d want to be treated as you walk around your average retail store and do the same with your booth.

Advertise

Tell everyone about your booth! Post it on social media, hand out event post cards and spread word of mouth about your new venture. In the beginning, your best customers can and will be your friends and family. They’ll definitely want to come see you and what you’ve been doing in your garage for months. Post pictures of your booth as the event progresses. That way, your post on Friday will inspire someone to come see you on Saturday.

bonus tip: If you have a business page on Facebook, spend a few dollars to boost your post to more of your followers. I’ve had some decent success spending $10-15 on one.

Finish With a Business Card

Finally, if a buyer is really interested in your work but isn’t ready to buy, have a business card ready to hand them. Sometimes, I make more sales after a fair because a buyer has a custom request or is interested in something you might sell online and don’t have it at your booth. You can even sweeten the deal and offer a discount on a later purchase.

Above all, remember that you’re doing this to have fun! Celebrate when you have a fantastic weekend of sales and don’t get too discouraged if you have a weekend that doesn’t do as well as you wanted. Keep trying and tweaking until you find the right formula for crafty success!

If you haven't depressed the trigger on a blowtorch and heard the momentary hiss of the gas releasing, followed by the low whoosh of the flame catching, well, my friend, I recommend you try it. There must be some caveman-brain connection with fire that takes place, or maybe it's the six-year-old in me. But either way, the first time I grabbed a blow torch and clicked it on, I was hooked. 

Fortunately, it's also a ridiculous useful tool to have around the shop! It's one of those tools that you don't know you need until the occasion presents itself, but trust me, once you own one, you'll have plenty of occasions to use it. Here are just a few of the ways a blowtorch can make itself useful:

1. Fix the frayed ends of a nylon rope

Every time you cut a nylon rope, you leave the frayed ends exposed, weakening the weave and just generally being annoying. Solve that, fast, with a quick pass under the blowtorch. 

2. Finish a delicious steak with a perfect sear

Cooking a steak is all about balancing a flavorful crust with bringing the center of the meat to the perfect temperature. If your thermometer is telling you you're nearing a medium rare, but the outside hasn't browned enough, employ the blowtorch. Simply turn it to medium high, and hold the flame about 6" away. Keep it moving constantly so you brown, not burn. 

 Salt. Pepper. Fire. And suddenly everyone thinks you're a genius. 

3. Clean up your metal tools

Sticky adhesive residues, old paint, caked on mud or spackle. All of that stuff is easy to burn right off (just make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy, and work in a well-ventilated area). Keep the flame on low, and don't get too close. You simply want to heat the grime, not warm up the steel itself. 

4. Char-stencil wood

I cut a simple template of the ManMade 'M' logo into a piece of MDF, and then laid it over a scrap of plywood. With a little heat applies via my favorite blowtorch, it's not hard to leave your mark (whether that's for purely decorative purposes, or any other reason).

5. Braze metal (repair iron, brass, copper, etc.)

Usually, when something made of metal breaks, my first though is, "Well, that's it. Straight to the scrap heap." Not anymore! Small metal repairs aren't too hard (once you get the hang of it), using a blowtorch and brazing rods. You can get brazing rods at most hardware stores (make sure to get the right type for the kind of metal you're working on). Then you just apply heat until the rod melts and flows into the joint. As you can see from my attempt above, I'm no expert, but I think with a little practice I could get these joints looking much cleaner. Ugly as mine were, they're still quite strong.

6. Char Peppers & Tomatoes to Remove Skin Easily

Peppers should be a whole food group, by themselves. If you get into cooking with them, eventually you'll run across a recipe that has you char the pepper on the grill, and then remove the skin. Here's an easier way: just place the vegetable on a flame-proof roasting sheet and hit it with your blowtorch until the skin is blackened. Then, let it sit in a covered container for a few minutes, after which the skin should slide right off.

This post is sponsored by Bernzomatic, but all opinions are mine alone. Thanks for supporting the brands that make ManMade possible. 

On the side, my wife and I sell some of our handiwork at craft fairs, barn sales and vintage markets. When we got started, we had mostly folding plastic tables and white table cloths. And as you know, nothing, except maybe a grilled hot dog on a paper plate on the Fourth of July, looks its best on a folding plastic table and white table cloth.

I was noticing that a lot of the vendors carted in giant farm tables and fixtures to hold all their products, but real farm tables are heavy and I don't even have a truck to carry all of that! So, I got to thinking how could I have the same look and feel of a farmhouse while also being portable. This weekend I tried out an idea and it worked out really well for what we need and I thought I'd share it with you.

I can see this table being used as a portable bar or dinner table for an outdoor party. 

What you'll need:

1. Reclaimed flooring. You can also call your local hardwood flooring store and ask for discontinued boxes for a bargain. 
2. 4 Medium-sized ornamental gate hinges
3. 4 Spun legs. I bought mine at a big-box hardware store and removed the pre-installed leg screws.
4. A pocket hole drilling kit and screws
5. Wood Glue
6. Nail pullers—if your flooring still has nails in it.

One side of your table will have the groove and one will have the tongue, so we need to cut the tongue off, so lets start by removing that at the table saw.

Next, we'll start gluing up the pieces. I need my table to be about 48" long, so I dug through my pile for that length. To glue this table up properly, you can apply one of two ways. 1) you fill the groove joint with glue and hammer in the tongue joint. 2) coat the tongue joint on both sides of the tongue and hammer on the groove. 

If you're a slow gluer like me, you may have to clamp up each board as you go, otherwise the glue will start to dry on you and your joints wont be so tight. It's better to take your time than rush through it. Since this piece isn't fine woodworking, I'm not too worried about perfect.

Once you've glued up all of the boards you need, let it dry for a few hours. Then, it's time to cut the length to size. 

I set up a cross cut by clamping a long level and running my circular saw across. Do this for both sides.

Now it's ready for a skirt! I made one with more strips of flooring with the tongue removed. Measured two long pieces and two short pieces to make the rectangle that goes underneath the table. I wanted to make sure that every board was supported since this table will be on the road, so the skirt is wider in the pictures that a typical table skirt is. 

With your pocket hole jig, make holes to create 4 butt joints as well as holes to mount the skirt to the table.

Let's bring it in for a landing! I picked these up at the hardware store. Start by setting the legs on the table where you want them to land. Since this table is really short compared to most, I had to stager the width of the legs so they will fold flush to the table. When unfolded, you really can't tell too much.

One at a time, pick up each leg and set it flush against the skirt wall. Then, set one of the hinges up against the leg on the center line (Unlike in the picture, don't worry, I centered it before I screwed it in.).

There it is, Now all it needs is a coat of paint on the legs and skirt then it's ready for our next market!

I would imagine the larger the table you make and the larger the legs, the sturdier it will be. Once this table was fully set up on level ground I had pretty minimal wobbling. I think there are some improvements that could be made on that aspect. I'm going to research some folding table parts to see if I can get a hold of the folding arms that you pop into place to really add stability to each leg. I'll report back on my findings!

Happy building!

I love pegboard. I love organizing my workshop with it, I love using it in our office, I think it's cool when people do the Julia Childs-style pegboard pot rack thing...and I even like seeing it in store aisles, and noting all the clever and and adaptable industrial design things used to display items.

But...But! While pegboard is amazing for hanging stuff neatly on a grid, it does absolutely nothing for items without a hole in them. And there are plenty of those used-on-every-project type tools that it simply can't handle: glue bottles, drill bits, paint and putty, and most significant to me, a tape measure. I have three or four of them, all basically identical, and I use them all on nearly every project because there's no obvious place to store them on my pegboard in between making measurements, and they get set down in all kinds of places.

So, I came up with a solution to create very affordable, very customizable DIY pegboard shelves that integrate into any pegboard system and can be made in just a few minutes. They're just as moveable as normal hooks, so you wont have to drill any holes in your pegboard, yet they still can support a surprising amount of weight across their length.

The system is based on two key materials: 3/4" thick select grade pine, and square bend hooks. The 3/4" pine is sold as a 1x4, 1x6, 1x8 etc in the lumber section, and the L-shaped hooks can be found with the eye bolts and other hooks in the hardware aisle. 

The are two important things to keep in mind when making this style of shelf:

1. It's best to keep things to whole inch increments, at least for the width - the part that will butt up against the pegboard. Pegboard holes are 1" on center, and it's easiest just to consider the shelves as taking up a certain number of hole real estate, so they don't interfere with more spots than necessary. It's also wise to think of these as long rather than deep shelves. Pegboard is a mostly vertical system that allows you to use your wall space, not the floor space, so I'd recommend keeping these to no more than 6" deep.
2. In order for the shelves to be installed tight and flush against the pegboard, you need to knock down the back top edge so that you can tilt the shelf to install it with the hooks. You can do this easily with some medium grit sandpaper, a knife, a hand plane, or a router. 

More on both below. 

The assembly process is super simple.

1. Measure out your hook spacing on the back. Since pegboard holes are 1" on center, as long as your holes are spaced at a whole inch length, you'll be good to go. 
2. Make a mark at least 1 1/2" inches from either side, doing your best to keep them on the same center line.
3. Drill a pilot hole for the square bend hook. I used a 3/32 drill bit for a #10 hook.
4. Add the hook to each hole, making sure it's an equal number of turns from the back so that it's evenly spaced against the shelf. Obviously, both hook ends will need to be facing up towards the knocked-down edge. 

The hooks can be a little tough to drive with just your fingers, so I like to grab them with a pair of pliers, and then spin the wood to drive the threads into the shelf.

Then, attach it to the shelf. You can see how the rounded over or chamfered edge is important to get a tight fit here. It allows the hooks to sit just the pegboard's thickness (usually 1/4" or 3/16") away from the shelf, and still be able to attach it.

And... you're done!

That's the basic, use-a-scrap-piece-of-wood-and-some-hardware system. It works great for small, flat items, and can easily be integrated between similar tools that hang on hooks.

For an even stronger, more versatile shelf, you can add a bottom support that will handle much more weight. The idea is basically the same: 

Cut a shelf to length, then add a slightly shorter and thinner bottom rail. Here, I cut the shelf to 18x5" and the bottom piece to 16" x 3 1/4", creating a total height of 4", or four pegboard holes.  Attach with a butt joint, and drill and sink screws to hold everything in place. 

Since I have a router, I used a chamfer bit around the whole top, knocking down the top edge for installation, and to add a more finished look. 

You could even add small hooks to the bottom support for even more versatile storage options. 

I plan to use this technique to create even more workshop storage solutions. Let me know what else one could make with this idea in the comments below. 

This ManMade post was originally published in September 2014. We're sharing it again cause it's time to get that workspace organized!

Rare is the craftsperson who couldn't use just a littlemore workspace. Maybe not more square footage (though I'd certainly take some), but perhaps more work surfaces to spread out projects, or some more storage to keep track of all the bits and pieces that come along with any technique.

Building this custom tool cabinet will certainly help. It adds a lot of vertical storage and organization for tools and parts, plus it's built into an old handtruck or wheel and axle combo. So you can nix your current bins and put your tools in here, build another worksurface in its place, then wheel your tools around in between to work on things with ease. Plus, it's built with standard and easy-to-find materials like "3/4" and 1/2" thick plywood, 1/4" thick MDF, ... and common hardware." Love it. 

I like the use of the "one good face" plywood; it keeps the outside looking sharp, while the inside has more a pronounced "shop grade" flat sawn softwood look, which keeps everything nice and affordable. 

Get the full how-to from the Lee Valley newsletter: Build a Rolling Tool Tote

If you want gap-free joinery and a perfect, long-lasting fit for both strength and aesthetics, precise measuring and marking of parts is essential. But, at each step of the process of measuring, transferring marks, and cutting can allow tiny little errors of 1/64 or 1/32", which, over the course of a project, can add up significantly. So here's a simple little trick that takes no extra time, but creates much more accurate results.    

 The measuring process usually looks like this. You take a tape measure or long rule and determine the length and mark that spot with a pencil. Then, you grab a square and extend you mark across the width of the wood, at a perfect ninety degrees. Then you use a saw to cut it to length.

Most often, we'll place the square on the mark, and use the pencil or a marking knife to transfer the line across the face. But here's the rub: the pencil line itself takes up space, often 0.5 or 0.7mm, about 1/64". Compounded across the entire project, those numbers start to add up. 

So, instead, don't place the square on your line and run the pencil or marking knife along its edge. Place your pencil/marking knife first, then slide the square up to it to create a long line across the exact same point. 

It's super simple. Measure your length, and grab both your square and pencil. Place the pencil on your tick mark.

Then, register your square on the edge, and slide to your pencil until it touches the graphite. Now, extend the mark across the face. 

You can see what a difference this makes in the photo above. Even with a super fine mechanical pencil, the difference is significant.

The best thing is: this takes absolutely no more time than doing it the square-first way. It's just a bit of muscle memory and retraining your brain to get it in the habit. 

Done and done. 

If you want gap-free joinery and a perfect, long-lasting fit for both strength and aesthetics, precise measuring and marking of parts is essential. But, at each step of the process of measuring, transferring marks, and cutting can allow tiny little errors of 1/64 or 1/32", which, over the course of a project, can add up significantly. So here's a simple little trick that takes no extra time, but creates much more accurate results.    

 The measuring process usually looks like this. You take a tape measure or long rule and determine the length and mark that spot with a pencil. Then, you grab a square and extend you mark across the width of the wood, at a perfect ninety degrees. Then you use a saw to cut it to length.

Most often, we'll place the square on the mark, and use the pencil or a marking knife to transfer the line across the face. But here's the rub: the pencil line itself takes up space, often 0.5 or 0.7mm, about 1/64". Compounded across the entire project, those numbers start to add up. 

So, instead, don't place the square on your line and run the pencil or marking knife along its edge. Place your pencil/marking knife first, then slide the square up to it to create a long line across the exact same point. 

It's super simple. Measure your length, and grab both your square and pencil. Place the pencil on your tick mark.

Then, register your square on the edge, and slide to your pencil until it touches the graphite. Now, extend the mark across the face. 

You can see this process at work in the photo above. Even with a super fine mechanical pencil, the difference is significant.

The best thing is: this takes absolutely no more time than doing it the square-first way. It's just a bit of muscle memory and retraining your brain to get it in the habit. 

Done and done. 

Turns out, getting fully outfitted is only half the battle. Once you've selected all your gear, it's important to pack it up right for both balance and ease when carrying and access when you need it.     

Appropriately, Backpacker magazine has the low-down in a helpful video. There, Deputy Editor Casey Lyons shows you how to stash and store all your equipment for a more comfortable hike, putting the weight where you need it so you're set up for success. 

Check out the original article for all the details: How to Pack a Backpack [Backpacker.com] 

My name is Bryson and I have a problem. Whenever I find myself in a hardware store I have a list and I have a second list. On that second, unwritten list, are the things I always tell myself I need for my shop and I inevitably walk out with a bag full of it. I'm always telling myself "Well, ya can't have too many of these!" Here's my short list of seven things I just can't seem to live without and for good reason.

Painter’s Tape

I can’t get enough of this blue stuff. I use it for all kinds of random things. Labeling, highly visible line marking and temporary holds of random things. I use this tape the most as temporary joinery when I build boxes. Take all four sides and tape the ends together and roll up into a box shape. It’s the best way to see if my joints are cut perfectly.

Note: another tape I love is gaffer’s tape. It’s used heavily in the entertainment industry for it’s strength and adhesive that doesn’t leave residue. Think of it like better duct tape—Yea, I sad it. 

Deck Screws
A lot of people use drywall screws as their everyday use fasteners, but I’ve found the threads to be too sharp and have cut myself several times digging into my pocket for a screw. I pay a little more for self-tapping ones too, no drill bits required! I finish projects faster and the tan color blends in better than black.

Clamps
It goes without saying, really, that you can’t have enough clamps. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve worked up a storm in the shop with 3 random things on the gluing table and I get a wild idea to start on another project that takes 5 more clamps. Go ahead and just budget each month for clamps of all sizes and shapes.

Plywood Scraps

I really don’t toss out any scraps, call me a hoarder if you will, but I certainly don’t toss out plywood scraps. I use them to comp out new ideas, as notepads to write on and perhaps the most important use, to make jigs. All of my templates and jigs are made from Frankensteined plywood pieces.

Rags
Got a bunch of old shirts you don’t want anymore? Then you got yourself a new bucket of shop rags. I keep a running pile in a box that I toss any rag or blanket or shirt I’m through with in the house.  You can even divide them up in sections, flannels for buffing a nice finish, t-shirts for stain application and towels for mess clean up. I only recommend sorting if you have tons of space, unlike me.

Glues
I keep 4 kinds of glue on hand (but not on my hands) in my shop. Wood glue, super glue, epoxy resin and pasty super glue. Each of them works well for their respective projects. It’s never fun when you get started on a project, need glue, and are completely out. Whenever I’m getting low, I double restock. 

Ear and Eye Protection
This one seems pretty obvious. The main reason I keep a large pack of the ear plugs is for my friends that like to come over and pitch in! Most of them aren't as into building as I am, so they usually don't bring anything with them. Having extra protection handy is always a good thing.

There you have it, these are the things I hoard like a doomsday prepper. So far, my wife hasn't said anything about it. haha! What items do you keep stocked in your workshop pantry?

A few weeks ago, we had a couple of friends over for dinner, and the husband joined me in the kitchen as I was finishing up some carrots I'd blackened and blistered then finished in the oven.

"Oh, you like your cast iron skillet?" he asked.

"Like it?" I replied. "I have three of them, and I use 'em as much as possible."

He was a little surprised at my response, and me by his. He'd said he and his wife had registered for both a large skillet and a dutch oven for their wedding, and received both. But once they got them home and unboxed, they could really figure out how to season them, how to clean them, or how to care for them. This, of course, broke my heart a bit, and I vowed that if he brought them over sometime, I'd help him get them ready to go, and show him what they could do.

So, whether you're just getting started in the wonderful, flavorful world of cast iron, or you'd like to move beyond special occassion meals and use these as your daily cookware, there's just a few things you should know, and keep around, for smooth, non-stick, generation-lasting success.      

1. The skillet:  Obviously, if you don't have one, you're going to need one. Truthfully, I prefer buying used cast iron cookware from vintage shops and flea markets. Made in the heyday of this style of cookware, older skillets are made from super high-quality ore from Pennsylvania, West Virginia, and my own homestate of Ohio, cast into the right shape, and then, most importantly, ground down on the inside for a much smoother cooking surface. Brands like Griswold, Vollrath, and Wagner are the king here.

But, there's nothing wrong with starting with a new skillet either. You could spring for the very high-end Finex from Portland, OR, or simply go with the standard: a pre-seasoned 12" skillet from Lodge. Once you've got a larger model, consider a medium as well; I find I use my 8" and 10" models most of the time when cooking for two people. (There's a chance it's actually because they're on top of the stack in my pantry).

ManMade Recommended: Lodge 12-inch Cast Iron Skillet

2. Flaxseed Oil: There are several ways to season a skillet: lard, vegetable shortening, beef tallow, etc. But the recent work of scientists and extensive testing recommends something the early cast iron users wouldn't have had access to in the kitchen: food-grade flax oil. It creates an extremely secure bond with the metal, resulting in non-stick layer that can stand up to anything. There's no reason to use anything else. 

ManMade Recommended:  Puritan's Pride Organic Flaxseed Oil

3. Kosher Salt: A lot of the mystery surrounding cast iron revolves around: if you can't use soap, how do you get the stuck on food and oil out? The answer: you abrade it away. A tablespoon or so of coarse salt and a paper towel will remove almost all the crusty bits and absorb any remaining oil, especially if you can attack it while the pan is still warm and the drippings liquid. A quick rinse in water, and you're ready to dry and oil and put it away until next time. 

ManMade Recommended:  Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt, 3 lbs

4. Stainless Steel Cast Iron Scrubber: You can use a nylon bristle brush or sponge on cast iron without harming the surface, but, as anyone who's ever done it can attest, it will become black with iron and likely saturated with grease and little bits without soap.

The answer: chain mail. This brilliant little $15 device is a stainless steel wash cloth that will help your pan become spick and span, and look just as fresh after a rinse. If it gets particularly built-up, just toss it in the dishwasher.

ManMade Recommended: The Ringer - The Original Stainless Steel Cast Iron Cleaner

5. Wooden Utensils, Turners, Spatulas, Etc. - You can use metal on a well-seasoned skillet without ruining the surface, but you don't have to. I've been using the same set of bamboo utensils and a pair of tongs on every pan I have - iron, steel, copper, and non-stick, for ten years, and I don't prefer anything else. Use what you have, or grab a totally affordable set online. 

6. Handle mitts: In my kitchen, these serve two purposes. First, they help protect your hand when moving a skillet out of the oven. Secondly, and somewhat related, they serve as a reminder to you and anyone else in your home that the handle of that pan is hot, and should not be grabbed without protection. Love them; use them daily. 

ManMade Recommended: Lodge Striped Hot Handle Holders/Mitts, Set of 2

7. Heavy-duty Trivets: One of cast irons greatest strengths is its ability to go from oven or stovetop directly to the table for serving. To protect the table, I like to use at thick trivets, and sometimes I'll double them up. I like these simple round cork ones from IKEA, but you can use whatever you have around. Just make sure the pan is at least 1/2" off the table to prevent heat from potentially damaging the finish.

Bonus: Infrared Thermometer: This is by no means necessary, but it's a fun tool that can help you turn out better tasting food. It's a simply a thermometer that takes the temperatures of any surface via a laser, and I love mine. The model shown is a Kintrex I received for Christmas five or six years ago, but here's a simple sub $20 version that should work just fine. 

There you go. No mystery, no magic. Just some simple tools, and a little attention to detail. Now go cook something amazing. 

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