Each week in 2015, ManMade is sharing our picks for the essential tools we think every creative guy and DIYer needs. We've selected useful, long-lasting tools to help you accomplish a variety of projects, solve problems, and live a hands-on lifestyle that allows you to interact with and make the things you use every day. 

Sometimes you need to cut paper, sometimes you need to cut wood, and sometimes you need to cut metal. And when that occassion arises, you need a pair of snips. 

Also called "tin snips" "metal shears" "aviation snips" and the like, these tools are designed to cut sheet metal, wire mesh and netting, etc, with ease. The classic design - tin snips or tinners snips - have been around for at least two thousand years, and basically resemble a pair of scissors. They're typically made of carbon steel, and have longer handles and shorter blades to increase leverage.

Modern snips are know as "compound-action snips" or (what I call them) "aviation snips" since they were developed to aid the construction of aircraft. These use "mechanical linkage" to increase your advantage - i.e. easier to cut thicker material without changing the length of the tool. 

There's also "compound offset snips" which turns the angle of the shears, allowing you to keep your hand away from the work, minimizing contact with the sharp edges. 

What do you use them for?

Basically, any time you want to cut thin aluminum, copper, brass, or steel. This includes a lot of common household and yardwork tasks, and if you know what they can do, they'll be the first tool you grab for a variety of jobs. 

These are great for cutting straight lines in wire mesh - like chicken wire, gardening barriers, fencing, etc. They also are great for cutting vinyl siding or molding transition strips. 

These are also the only tool recommended to cut sheet metal, duct work for HVAC or laundry, or roofing materials such as gutters, spouts, and steel roof. They can cut straight lines or circles for joints.

I also think they're the single best tool out there for opening thick clamshell-style packaging. Try it, and you'll never use office scissors or a pocket knife again.

What's the deal with the colored handles?

There's a good reason, of course, that you need a three-piece set to accomplish any cutting task. The yellow handled shears are designed to cut straight lines and gentle curves; the green ones will cut straight and clockwise (to the right); and red will cut straight and counter clockwise (to the left). Remember, this comes from the aviation world, and the whole red/left/port & green/right/starboard scheme is standard there. If you have trouble remembering (I always tend to emphasize the Rs and think "Red=Right"), it's pretty easy to look at the curve of the blades, or you can just write R and L on the handles with a Sharpie.

Which Tin Snips or Aviation Snips are the Best?

Whatever you call them, there's an industry standard: Wiss. They work, they've worked for decades, and can be resharpened to work for many years to come. This is a buy-it-once-buy-it-right kind of tool, so get the good stuff. One of our contributor's owns the Milwaukee set below, and recommends it highly. 

You can buy each pair individually, or as a set. If you start with one, go for the yellow, or if you plan to do duct work, get the green if you're right-handed and left if you're left-handed. Any pair will work in either hand, but this is the natural direction you'll approach curved cuts.  But by the time you're bought two pair, you can get the whole set for basically the same price.

ManMade Recommended: 

• Wiss M123R 3-Piece Aviation Snip Set: $29.96
• Wiss M3R Straight, Left, and Right: $13.97
• Wiss M1R Straight and Left Cut Snip: $13.97
• Wiss M2R Straight and Right Cut Snip: $14.86
• Wiss M7R Offset Snips:  $18.34
• Milwaukee Snips Set: $37.97

Happy summer, ManMakers. Those three months where the days are long, and the weekends are time to just grab a bag and go. So, this is our handy guide to traveling: tips to plan, pack, and explore so you can get the most out of your trip.

It starts like this: you plan a trip, request your vacation time, make a few arrangements, the you leave everything to the very last minute, and panic ensues. Yep. We've all been there. And...this is why we have created our nifty little guide to help you get all of those details sorted out. Take note!

PLAN

- Flying to your destination: Hipmunk is a great site to find deals on airplane tickets. Love how it categorizes the search results by agony and price (brilliant, right?). There's also Kayak and Travelocity, which show you the cheapest flights found by other people, perfect for those with a flexible schedule. 

- Drive to your destination: If you're going away road trip style, make sure to get GasBuddy on your smartphone. This app will give you the cheapest gas prices on the go. If you're still unsure whether you should be driving or flying, then go to Travel Math, a site that calculates the best way to get to your destination (based on time, cost, distance, etc.).

- Book your accommodation: airbnb is honestly one of the best tools to book accommodation. There are tons of different options to choose from - cabins, apartments, single rooms, you name it. But, if you are more into hotels, Price Negotiator is perfect for finding deals. 

- Map your points of interest: Google map any attractions you want to visit before hand, make sure to check schedules for museums, parks, and restaurants, and then save them in your favorite places so you can easily navigate later, as well as visit all the spots in a region or neighborhood. Use Any.DO to make quick notes and reminders so you don't forget any of these details.

PACK

You may think this is the least of your worries, but we've all spent time scrambling to figure out what to bring.

Before you pack

1. Lay out every single item of clothing you're taking. Then get rid of one thing in each category.
   Do you really need that many shirts? Get rid of any "just in case" items. Those never get used, and you know it.
2. Cover the basics. It's only a weekend.

• 1 casual shirt,
• 1 pair of shoes
• socks and underpants
• dark jeans (you can dress them up in case you go out) and a belt
• 1 jacket, sweatshirt, or sweater,
• 1 dressy item for going out to a nice dinner
• toiletries (unless you're staying at a hotel where they're provided. Then just a toothbrush and paste and medications)
• Accessories:one book, phone charger. Leave everything else at home. 

Pack it up

1. Odd shaped items go at the bottom of your suitcase or backpack (shoes, windbreaker, etc). Save space by stuffing your socks and clean undies in your hat (plus it'll help to keep the shape). 
2. Roll your jeans, t-shirts, and shirts and add them on top.
3. Fill any gaps with the rest of your items (e.g. belts, watches, ties).
4. Any delicate items go on the very top, snuggled in between your garments.

EXPLORE

Even though we love the feeling of having a Lonely Planet guide while traveling, they can be heavy and take too much space. Instead, stuff your phone with apps and you'll be set for success.

• Wallpaper Magazine City Guides: You can either buy the printed version or you can download the app. Either way, these guides are a must-have for any design-savvy traveler.
• Everplaces:nothing like getting some local advice. This app has tons of reviews and recommendations written by locals. Best of all, it has a design-y twist and you can find lots of cool spots.
• Wi-Fi Finder:Need a cyber fix? Use this app to find the nearest WiFi network, super handy when you want to quickly upload some pictures to your Flickr account or fire off a few emails.
• Trapster: Getting a traffic fine while on vacation definitely sucks, with Trapster you can find police "traps" to avoid getting a ticket, not that you would, but just in case (shhh, don't tell them we told you about it).
• SitorSquat:Let's face it, when you're traveling the last thing you want to do is having to spend money and time lining up at a store, just you can use their washroom. SitorSquat can tell you where to take your business on the go. Phew!
• Average Cam Pro:if all you're using to take photos is your phone's camera, then you should get Average Cam Pro. This app is great to take photos at night (including starry skies!). If you have a mini tripod take it with you, if not, just place your phone on a flat surface and let the app work its magic.

Travel light, travel often. Got any extra tips or apps of your own? Share them in the comments below!

Bon voyage!

This ManMade post was originally published on June 17, 2013

For years, I didn't think I liked a gin and tonic. Actually, for a while, I thought it was gin in general that I couldn't stand, but some wiser friends helped me learn with some really stunning gin-centric cocktails, and I quickly moved away from vodka in favor of gin's special aromatic and botanicals qualities. So, then I figured I just didn't care quinine-heavy tonic water, but that didn't make sense, since I'm particularly drawn to mineral and bitter flavors in cocktails and other beverages. Maybe it was the combo of the two...but by this point, I was already committed, so I was determined to figure out what was going awry, once and for all.    The results of my quest? One, I like gin. A whole bunch. Two, I like tonic water. And three, I actually like them together. So what was the problem with all those early highballs that sent me into funny face-making disgust?

It wasn't the type of gin, but rather...the brand of tonic water. Turns out, the corn syrup-sweetened (and widely available) Schweppe's  just doesn't do it for me. It's way too sweet, almost like Sprite, and the botanicals have a bad medicinal profile that tastes almost like a swimming pool, rather than a pleasant, challenging bitter taste.

So, if you wanna instantly up your gin and tonics this summer, invest in a better tonic water. Or at least, try a few other brands to discern which you like best, rather than just go with what you can find at the carryout. Some tonics to check out: Q Tonic (pictured above), Fever Tree Mediterranean, Fentiman's, or even mass market brands like Seagram's. Or, if you're feeling particularly ambitious, you can make your own tonic syrup and mix with club soda; Jeffrey Morganthaler has a great recipe.

The point is, a gin and tonic is a really basic drink with two distinctive and bold components, So, don't skimp on the tonic, which makes up more than half the highball. You don't have to go for the pricier, artisanal brands exclusively, but make sure you're using a tonic you love. A great tonic can turn an affordable $17.50 bottle like Beefeater or Boodles into something pretty special. 

To finish the story....I still find most commercial tonics too sweet, even the higher-end brands. If you're in the same boat, try my trick of cutting the tonic with soda water. I like to do equal parts of club soda and tonic and bulk up the aromatics with two dashes of orange or lemon bitters.

Chris' Favorite Summertime Gin and Tonic:

• 2 oz. London dry gin 
• 2 oz. Fever Tree Mediterranean-style tonic water
• 2 oz. club soda
• 2 dashes Fee Brothers orange bitters 
• Garnish: lime wedge or cucumber slice

For more on creating great two-ingredient drinks, check out the ManMade guides to:

• The Magic Highball Formula: How to Memorize One Recipe, and Make Dozens of Drinks 
• 10 Highball Recipes Every Man Should Know [Free Download!] 

This ManMade post was originally published on June 18th, 2013. We're sharing it again because it's summer!

Interesting fact of the day: homemade soap is actually better for you than store-bought options. It's true! According to Tiffany from Offbeat and Inspired, "because of the “superfatting” (a small % of excess oils), homemade soaps are so much more moisturizing than typical store-bought soaps that you may never need to use a hand moisturizer again." Oh, also - you can make soap (and shampoo) from beer. So, this whole thing seems like a win-win-and-win. 

The recipe features a dark ale, complemented with honey and citrus. And they use malted barley (the main ingredient of beer) as an exfoliant. Pretty clever. 

Check out the full recipe on Offbeat and Inspired. While you're there, check out their 101-style guide to making cold process soap of any type. 

A Recipe for Citrus Honey Scotch Ale Soap [offbeatandinspired.com]

If I could, I'd never not grill in the summer time. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, midnight snacks ... all of 'em would be over the open flame. It's the flavor, sure, and those attractive grill marks, but what I really love about grilling season is just cooking outside. Why hang out in the kitchen next to the stove when you can be in the summer air, surrounded by lightning bugs and tiki torches, with music in the background? 

So, I decided to take both the preparation and the cooking steps outside, and build this DIY grill cart and rollable prep station. It's got a large, counter-height top for slicing and prepping foods, two storage shelves to keep things organized, and collection of hooks and features to make for a great cooking experience. 

Oh! And get this

If you want to learn to make your own, you can sign up for this free DIY Workshop at your local Home Depot. It's available at Home Depot locations all across the U.S., and it doesn't cost a cent to learn. 

The DIY Grill Cart Workshop takes place this Saturday, June 20, 2015 from 10:00 - 11:30AM. You can find more details and register at the Home Depot Workshops page. 

If you live near Seattle, Washington, I, Chris Gardner from ManMade, will be teaching the workshop at the Seattle Bitter Lake Store (Store #4706 11616 Aurora Ave N.) If you're in the area, this is an awesome opportunity for me to meet  and collaborate with ManMade readers, and I've love to hang out with you and use some power tools for a day.

So, head to the Home Depot DIY Workshops page to sign up, and we'll see you on Saturday. 

SIGN UP HERE!

 Materials

• Two cedar 2x6s, eight feet long 
• Three cedar 1x3s, eight feet long
• Four cedar 1x4s, eight feet long
• Four three-foot lengths of 2" aluminum angle, 1/8" thick
• Four 3" casters, two locking and two regular
• 20x 3 1/2" galvanized or stainless decking screws
• 40x 3" galvanized or stainless decking screws
• 1 box 2" panhead screws
• Spray primer and paint (I used a 2-in-1 product)
• Wood finish (I used Watco Danish Oil)
• Assorted stainless hooks, paper towel bars, bottle openers, etc

Tools

• Circular saw or miter saw
• Cordless drill and driver
• Random-orbit sander or sand paper
• Thread cutting oil for drilling metal (in the plumbing aisle at Home Depot)
• Safety glasses, dust mask, and gloves

Note: I made my project using cedar, and designed it to live outside and last for many grilling seasons to come in the Pacific Northwest weather. If you know yours will stay in a garage or covered patio, you can save some money by using pine or fir rather than cedar. 

1. Build the top: The top is constructed from cedar 2x6s, cut to 36" in length. The completed size is 36 x 22 1/2". The 2x6s are set evenly on top of a frame, spaced a bit to allow the wood to expand and shrink with the weather, and to allow any water to drip through, like a picnic table top. 

The key to using dimensional lumber for great looking projects? Sandpaper. Take your time to smooth out any milling marks, and then sand the natural roundovers on the edges to be consistent and smooth. 

2. Assemble the frames. The structure of the cart consists of three frames constructed from cedar 1x3. Cut two pieces to 30" long, and two to 17" for each shelf frame (six of each size for the whole project). Attaching with butt joints makes these frames into an "apron" to mount the top and the shelves. This is smaller than the top, which allows for more working spaced without increasing the overall dimension of the cart. 

Once the frame rails are cut, assemble them into a finished size of 30 x 18 1/2". Then, use the 3 1/2" screws to attach the top (note the spacing of the 2x6s here). The top is now finished.

 
3. Make the shelves. There are lots of ways to create shelves for storage depending on your needs. I decided to make mine from slats of cedar 1x4. They're cut to 18 1/2" long, and I used eight for each, requiring two eight-foot long 1x4s per shelf. 

Like the top, these are assembled with screws through the bottom, so there's no visible hardware. I sanded each shelf carefully and also created a slight bevel, or chamfer, on each edge for a finished look. 

4. Make the Legs. The legs are 2" aluminum angle, which you can find in the weldable steel section of the home improvement store. You could also use steel, but it will be much harder to drill and cut. My aluminum is 1/8" thick, and plenty strong for this project. We put 300 lbs of weight on this thing just to test it, and had no problems whatsoever with strength. Plus, the aluminum won't rust as easily if the paint chips. 

To lay out the screw holes, I made a little jig from some 2" wide scrap cedar. I spaced the holes 1" apart, and then flipped it when marking the other side of the 90° angle. This guarantees all my screws are evenly spaced, and that none of them will hit another when attaching from the other side. At this point, you'll need to make the decision about where your middle shelf will sit. If you have an ash bucket or cooler or other large item you want to store on bottom level, be sure to account for that in your shelf spacing. 

You can drill into metal with an ordinary drill and drill bits. Just use a punch, awl, or a nailset to make a little divot so your drill bit doesn't wander, and start slow. Be sure to wear appropriate safety gear to protect yourself, and use a little oil when drilling to keep the bit and the material cool. 

Note: I bought my aluminum angle in 8" lengths and cut them to size, so my cart would be a comfortable working height with the top and casters in place. They ended up 30" long. You can use 3' lengths, but your cart will be taller overall. You can cut aluminum angle (but not steel) with a carbide blade in your miter saw, or use a hacksaw with a bi-metal blade. An angle grinder will also work, but if you own an angle grinder, you probably know that already :) 

Once cut and drilled out, prime and paint the legs. Take your time and do multiple thin coats for even coverage and no drips. 

5. Assemble the final cart. Now, all you gotta do is put things together. Start by placing the legs around the bottom shelf and screw into place to create the final shape. Then, attach the middle shelf, using a tape measure and level to make sure it hits the hardware holes at the right place. Lastly, attach the top. 

Whenever you attach metal to wood, be sure to use pan head screws instead of those with a flat, countersunk head. This will pull the material together and use the strength of the hardware and the wood to hold everything in place. 

Okay, confession time: here's where I had to adjust a little. I centered my screw holes on the 2" aluminum, which means the 1x3 material actually wasn't thick enough to accept the screws. So I had to add a little block of scrap 2x6 from the top to give the screws something to bite into. This also made a wide platform to attach the casters to the bottom. No big deal. You could avoid this step by drilling your screw holes 3/8 from the edge instead of centered, but it took me all of two minutes to make the extra cuts. 

Lastly, attach the casters to the bottom. Use the two locking casters on the long side you expect will face the grillmaster most often for easy access.

6. Finish the Grill Cart.  I finished my cedar with Danish Oil, which you can find in the stain and paint section of Home Depot. This finish cures in the wood, making it harder, and is easily to reapply. Danish Oil is considered food-safe once it has fully cured in the wood... or at least as food safe as cedar will ever be. I always plan to use a cutting board for food prep, so I focused on making the wood long lasting outdoors. Follow the manufacturer's directions, and allow to cure fully. 

Then, add some accessories, like hooks for the grill tools, and, of course, a bottle opener. 

Now, light the charcoal, and let's get grilling. 

Happy Summer, and remember: if you want to learn to build your own, head to the Home Depot DIY Workshops page to sign up. If you're in Seattle, I'll see you on Saturday!

SIGN UP HERE!

Thanks to Home Depot for sponsoring this post and making ManMade a partner for the 2015 DIY Workshop series. Thank you for supporting the brands that make ManMade possible. 

Vintage pieces are always fun to work with. Aside from looking great, they tell a story through dents, scratches, and a style that once was. Here's a quick tutorial on how to turn a vintage license plate into a great snack box for the mancave.   Working with metal has always been a bit intimidating to me. I'm comfortable with wood, leather, and other materials, but metal is just another medium that takes some time to master. Here's a great introduction project to start working with metal, using only a set of metal snips and a block of wood.

The project creates a cool box that's already painted and can be shown off proudly with about an hour of work.

Take a look at the step-by-step tutorial at the Cavender Diary 

Guess what. Being at the office all the time does not impress your managers. In fact, it's exactly the opposite: getting away from work can actually increase your chances of a raise or a promotion. Truth.    A new study shared by the Harvard Business Review and Project Time Off shows that those who get out of the office are happier at work (duh) but also are more likely to be successful. It makes good business sense (or creative, or non-profit, or educational, or whatever field) to use up all that Paid Time Off, and perhaps even to ask for more. 

The big fact from the HBR article reveals, "people who take all of their vacation time have a 6.5% higher chance of getting a promotion or a raise than people who leave 11 or more days of paid time off on the table. That percentage may sound small (and it is a correlation versus a causation), but it is the polar opposite of the idea that staying at work might mean getting ahead."

Further more, your brain is rested and energized from time off and travel, which increases your productivity, additionally benefitting those who pay you.

Managers associate personal happiness with productivity. In fact, when asked what vacation time benefit would motivate managers to talk to their employees about using more vacation days, the top benefit was increased personal happiness (31%), followed by productivity (21%). Why does happiness win out? Because most managers understand that happy employees are more productive and collaborative. 

Right? Right. Check out the piece from HBR in full, and this summary of facts from Project Time Off at BirchBox Man [via credit]. 

Are the People Who Take Vacations the Ones Who Get Promoted?

Remember when you were a kid, and you never went inside during the summer, except to ask permission from your parents to run around the neighborhood with that new kid you just met, or to get another PB&J, which you promptly marched right back outside?

Let's all do that again. Let's embrace bare feet, and staying up too late, and smell like chlorine and sunscreen. Let's have a summer.    

Of course, it doesn't mean you still can't relax and watch great movies and binge on your Netflix series. It just means you should do it outside. Here's everything you need to turn your yard into an outdoor "sit-in" theater.    

The Projector. Of course, you gotta have one. Digital projectors have dropped in price in the last five years that they know cost less than most HDTVs, and can create much bigger images. You can rent one, or borrow from a friend or work situation, but if you're looking to buy, we recommend the ViewSonic PJD5134 SVGA DLP Projector. It's bright enough to use at dusk, and has simple HDMI inputs to connect all your devices without adapters. Just place it on a flat and stable surface when using, to avoid debris and allow the fans to keep things cool. While you're at it, go ahead and pick up a dedicated outdoor extension cord and multi-outlet strip so you can project from anywhere. 16-gauge should work just fine.

For the source, you can use whatever you've got: laptop, DVD player, Apple TV, Roku, Xbox. If it works with a TV, it'll work with the projector. 

ManMade Recommended: 

• ViewSonic PJD5134 SVGA DLP Projector
• Coleman 50-Foot 16/3 Outdoor Extension Cord
• Belkin 6-Outlet Surge Protector with 2.5 feet Cord

The Audio. Many projectors have built in speakers, but you'll likely want another source for louder volume. You might have a portable Bluetooth speakers for smartphone use, and those work great for this application. If you don't have one, you don't need to pay for Bluetooth or wireless options just for movie watching; you can plug in with a simple cable. There's lots of ways to go here, just make sure you get one that's rated as LOUD so the whole yard can hear. Stereos, guitar amps, PA systems - anything you have will help. Also be sure to get a nice long cable so you can place the speaker away from the projector so you can hear easily. 

ManMade Recommended: 

• Divoom Voombox
• Jawbone BIG JAMBOX Wireless Bluetooth Speaker
• SHARKK® Boombox Wireless Bluetooth Speaker
• Anker Classic Portable Wireless Bluetooth Speaker 
• RCA - to 1/8" stereo cable
• Hosa 25' Headphone Extension Cable

The Screen. You can buy one, sure. But you can save tons of money and dial in the perfect size. First, get yourself some opaque fabric, like Carl's Blackout Cloth. Then, 

• Get two lengths of 1/2" PVC pipe and fold and sew a channel along the bottom, and basic sleeve at the top, leaving some space to insert the hardware. If you don't have a sewing machine, you can try a strong adhesive like E6000 or PVA glue, or you could even use a medium weight staple gun.
• Then, insert some evenly spaced grommets along the top.
• Slide in the PVC and cut to size, and use rope and hooks to mount it (on a wall, your roof eaves, a shed, a tree, etc). You can easily remove the PVC and fold it up for storage, and insert some eyelet screws in your ceiling for indoor use. 

This method gets you a very large screen for about $60 in materials. If you don't have a tree or wall or fence to hang it from, you can build a frame from PVC pipe or aluminum conduit, and keep it taught by securing guylines and stakes, like a tent. 

ManMade Recommended: 

• Carl's Blackout Cloth 66x110-inch, Matte White, 16:9
• Lord & Hodge 1073A-4 Grommet Kit

The Seats. Of course, you should use what you have. Patio chairs, lawn chairs, those stacking plastic Adirondacks - anything will work. If you're looking to seat a bunch of people and allow everyone to see, just get a few military-surplus style blankets, and have everyone camp out on the ground. Done and done. 

ManMade Recommended: 

• Outdoor Clothing U.S. Style Wool 3-Pound Military Blanket

• Rothco European Surplus Style Wool Blanket

• Swiss Army Blanket
• Rothco Grey Wool Rescue Blanket

The Snacks. If you're turning on the grill or lighting up the firepit, s'mores taste pretty great on a blanket in front of an outdoor movie screen.

But if you want to keep things simple? Popcorn, duh. It's the movies. Not the microwave junk, but real popcorn. And if you want to make great popcorn at home, you need to know one thing = only use white popcorn. It beats the pants off the yellow stuff, and in my experience, cooks more easily. It tastes great with just a little oil and salt, but welcomes butter and fancy seasonings perfectly. 

You can make a bunch ahead of time and store in little bowls or just brown paper lunch bags. There's lots of great techniques. My current faves are the wok and lid method, Alton Brown's stainless steel bowl, and the America's Test Kitchen tester kernals. 

ManMade Recommended: 

• Snappy White Popcorn, 4 lbs

 So! Put some drinks in the cooler, plug in that projector, and enjoy your summer. 

Photographs by the amazing Margaret Jacobsen. 

I have a few shirts I just can't seem to part with. They don't fit anymore (they're much too big) and I never wear them. Some are at least five years old, and barely holding together. 

So, I decided to turn them into something more useful. Here's a simple way to turn your unused shirts into simple handkerchiefs. Sized just a bit smaller, this works as an awesome "how to make a DIY pocket square" technique as well. 

Here's what you'll need:

• An unwanted button-up shirt
• fabric scissors
• measuring tape or ruler
• cardboard
• fabric pins
• iron
• washable fabric pen

First, we'll start by removing the back part of the shirt. That's the largest piece and the easiest to cut a large square from.

Next, we'll need to cut out a 13"x13" square. Do this by cutting out a square of cardboard to the same size, place it over the shirt and trace the permitter with a washable fabric marker. Once you've made the square outline, cut it out.

Now it's time to create hems on all sides of the square. Do so by folding your first edge over 1/4" and ironing it flat.

Next, fold your first fold over a second time and iron it.

Once you've folded and ironed the first side we'll pin down the fold to keep it steady for the sewing machine.

Repeat this process 3 more times, once for each side of the square. 

Once everything is pinned, it's time to sew! I enlisted the help of my wife, she's a master seamstress—hence the feminine hands in the photo. This part is rather simple, just set your machine to do a straight stitch around the hems of the square. It's ok if you can't make a straight line, I certainly couldn't. It just adds to the uniqueness. Remember to pull up the machine foot when you come to a corner so you can spin it 90 degrees.

When you've sewn all the way around and come back to your beginning, push your backup button on the machine and back up the stitch about 1/4 an inch. This will help secure the stitch. Don't forget, you'll need to tie off and cut your loose strings from the beginning stitch and the end stitch.

To finish things up, iron the hem really well to get a sharp crease, then you'll be good to go!

Skip that wrapping paper and put together a memorable gift crate for Father's Day. Here's a hot sauce filled wooden crate that will make you his favorite kid for yet another year.   Taking the crate I made last week and customizing it was a fun project. Since every box is different, here's a brief rundown on what I did to make it a one-of-a-kind piece that will definitely stick around.

I wanted the crate to feel a bit travelled and to look weathered so I decided to add some lettering and logos, and a rough faded whitewash to age the wood.

1. Dark Finish - I stained the pieces with a Red Mohagany to give the light wood some consistency, it also makes the next step really pop.

2. Whitewash - I used some old grey/white paint mixed with water to give the surfaces a light, textured feel.

3. Stenciling - Printed text was traced on the wood, leaving an impression. The impression was used as a guide to fill in with black paint. The logo was a bit harder due to the thin areas so I used a Dremel tool to trace the lines and leave an impression (fill the impression with black paint and sand off to leave a clean imprinted logo).

4. Final Whitewash and Smoothing - After all lettering was applied and dry, a final wipe-down with the whitewash rag and a buffing with a Brillo pad left the surface smooth and finished.

With the box dry, clean and fully finished it's time to talk about what we put into it.  My Dad is a hot-sauce guy. If it's spicy, he's all about it so this collection of heat is perfect for him:

1. Twelve different hot sauces, including BBQ sauce

2. Two spicy rib rubs

3. A Jar of Habernero-stuffed olives

4. Two Spicy Sausages

5. 1 Bag of buffalo-spiced chips

I originally was going to use shredded newspaper to pack the goods, but I had a bag of cedar shavings from a project that looked so much better. Part of the fun of receiving a package like this is opening it up, so I nailed the lid on to make the process part of the gift. So while you're shopping for your dad this week, make the package part of the memory and go for something with a bit of custom character.

Working with your hands can take a lot of forms. Just take it from Anthony Bourdain as he visits Frank Shattuck, a boxer and tailor famous for his "bench-made suits" in this unique process video.   

The series is called "Raw Craft" and features great conversations about the dedication to craftsmanship and simply about how suits should fit. Shattuck lives in a beautiful cabin in upstate New York where he crafts bespoke suits after 15 years of apprenticeship.

 The two met 17 years prior at a bar, after which Anthony couldn't get the idea of one of these finely crafted suits out of his mind. 

With immense attention to detail (1,200 stitches for a lapel), Shattuck pours his heart and effort into quality craftsmanship, even where others might cut corners. And it's always fun to watch Anthony Bourdain on his travels. 

Everyone loves to save their hard-earned cash. So spending as little as possible while getting the most value is always the best way to go. But how can you make that happen without acting like a jerk in the process? Here are a few tried-and-true tips.

I’m an admitted bargain hound. If it’s not on sale, it’s not for me. Does this mean I’m cheap? Not really, I buy nice things but I hunt and negotiate a deal or I wait it out. The main thing I love about a bargain is the money left over. Every dollar I save on a deal stays in my pocket for something else, and that’s a big motivation for me. One problem I see with bargain hunters is the tendency to be a major jerk to make a deal happen. Bullying, lying, cheating are all closely associated with negotiating for many people so decent people shy away from any type of bargaining to avoid operating in that seedy grey area. Last weekend I bought three major items and used these tips to get a good deal with everyone smiling in the end. Here are a few tips on getting the best deal, while keeping your integrity intact along the way.

1. Use cash. Credit may be the same as cash at the register, but you’ll almost always get a better deal with a stack of greenbacks. This is part because cash is immediate and guaranteed to have value, checks or credit put you at an immediate disadvantage because someone has to decide to accept that form of payment and the hassle that comes with it. On top of that, cash is emotional for people. A stack of crisp bills brings out a visual and mental response because it’s so engrained in our minds as a source of security and freedom; it also centers attention and gives you control of the conversation. A quick note: Don’t be stupid flashing a huge amount of cash around on a big deal. Bring a few hundred in twenty dollar bills for an impressive stack, and have a cashier’s check for the balance.
2. Ask for a deal. It may sound strange, but everything is negotiable. Getting in front of a manager and asking for a better price works about half the time for me, and you can usually save about 10% or more. The key with this is to look for items that have damaged boxes, a bit of dust on them, or other indications that they’re taking up space. It doesn’t have to be a scratch-and-dent for a deal, but finding a legitimate reason why they should come down in price makes it easy for the staff to justify giving a deal. On that topic, don’t EVER give a price first. Ask for a deal and make them come up with the price: “What kind of deal could I get on this? Or “What’s your bottom price on this?”. Letting them set a price comes out lower than I’m expecting a majority of the time. If it’s too high, simply say “ah, that’s still a bit higher than I was hoping to pay.” With that in mind, learn to embrace silence.
3. Silence is the best negotiator. I’ve had more deals come together by keeping my mouth shut. 30 seconds of silence in a conversation is uncomfortable and generally results in them negotiating the price down a bit more themselves. Don’t be rude about the silence, genuinely contemplate the deal (while counting silently to at least 30) and let them think on it they almost always come up with their very best deal about 25 seconds in.
4. Be fine walking away. The worst deals I’ve made came from “having” to have it. Losing the ability to be fine walking away will always cost you more. Keep in mind that there are always more of everything and if this doesn’t work out, no problem.
5. Remember they’re a person. Here’s the part where you remind yourself that the very best price is no good if you come out as a jerk. Never lie, bully, or treat another person like they don’t matter in the deal. Retail isn't always a pleasant job, so work hard to be the highlight of their day, not another reason for them to find another place to work.

Now get out there and get a deal.

Have any tips you like on how to get a bargain? We'd love to hear!

Each week in 2015, ManMade is sharing our picks for the essential tools we think every creative guy and DIYer needs. We've selected useful, long-lasting tools to help you accomplish a variety of projects, solve problems, and live a hands-on lifestyle that allows you to interact with and make the things you use every day. 

Woodworking and DIY tasks are often about keep things straight. That is: flat, square, true, non-bowed, non-cupped, planed, and jointed. There's a half a dozen tools in the shop dedicated to doing one or a few of those things, with complex fences and tables to ensure everything stays square.

And my favorite power tool laughs in the face of all those things. It not only is intended to cut curves and complex shapes, but can do so not just in solid wood, but in metal, plastic, laminate, ceramic, and plywood. We're talking about the jig saw, which is, by far, the most fun tool in the shop, and surprisingly versatile. 

Of course, no tool is more frustrating when it doesn't work. I went through three (3!) jig saws before I found one that wouldn't vibrate the material to death, had quality blade tracking, and produced great cuts. So, unfortunately, this isn't a $50 tool. But, get the right one, and you'll save on materials and headaches, cause a good jig saw does just what it's asked.

What Makes for a Good Jig Saw?

In short - control. The design of a jig saw (also called a sabre saw or handheld scroll saw by some) means it's necessarily more difficult to get clean cuts. The blades are small, thin, and relatively weak (you can bend them with one finger), and they're completely unsupported at the bottom. Using the tool requires it to cut at a variety of speeds both with and across the grain of the wood (and every degree in between).

The best tools have three key features: quality blade rollers that keep the blade in place just above the sole, a powerful and smooth motor, and a heavy cast aluminum or steel sole that helps dampen vibrations. Also look for easy adjustment of the bevel, which allows you to make complex angled and curved cuts. The best saws have stout blade releases made of high quality parts that will last for many blade changes to come, and include blowers to keep saw dust away from the cut line, so you can see where you're going. 

You'll also want a variety of speeds for working in different material, but that's standard on most saws these days. Worry more about a big, smooth motor and precision rather than the bells and whistles.

How to Get Smooth Cuts with a Jig Saw

A bit of prep work will guarantee a great cut.

1) Always draw a line, and never cut on it. Rather, stay to the outside of your line. This guarantees you wont remove too much material, and the angle of the blade won't force you off your mark. Once you shape is roughed out, you can sand to the line.

2) Support your cut on both sides. Because of the design of the tool and the nature of the cuts made, you need to cover a lot of ground over your material. So, you can't just hang it off a bench and have at it. You'll get too much vibration, ruining your cut. Always support both sides of the material, and rest your body against the wood, etc, to dampen the impact. Sawhorses are great here, as are those little flip up work benches. I often use the expandable wing of my table saw, which allows me to support the work with either side of the extension, with a nice empty space in-between. 

3) Clamps! Use them. Many of them. Enough said. 

4) Make sure the saw is running fully before it touches wood. This is important for all power tools, but especially necessary with the up and down cutting action of a jig saw. Never let the teeth grab the wood and take the material with the blade (kickback? kickup?); when the saw is at full speed, it will cut what's in its path. If you need to stop and start the blade in the middle of the cut, create some extra space in the waste where you can insert the blade and start the motor before moving the saw. 

5) You can always approach the line from another angle. If you have an especially tight or complex curve to cut, start at one side, then come in from another side to maintain control. These are called 'relief cuts' and will allow the waste to fall out of the way, so you can concentrate on keep things smooth. 

What's the Best Jig Saw?

You can see from the photos that I'm a big fan of the Bosch tool. If this one every dies, I'd replace it in a heartbeat with its equivalent. And if the quality changes, I'd buy a used one. There are a couple other great affordable options out there (expect to spend $90 - $250), but you'll never go wrong with a Bosch model. They may be pricier, but they're worth it, and last for many, many cuts to come. 

ManMade Recommended: 

•  Bosch JS470E 120-Volt 7.0-Amp Top-Handle Jigsaw - $157.50 
• Bosch JS572EL 120-Volt Top-Handle Jig Saw With L-BOXX 2 - $259.00 (No, this isn't too much to spend on a jig saw. Read the reviews, and you'll see why)
• DEWALT DW317 Variable-Speed Orbital Jigsaw - $114.50
• Milwaukee 6268-21 6.5 Amp Top Handle Jig Saw - $193.36

Also, you'll want these, too:

• Portamate PM-3300T Sawhorses
• Bosch 101AO 3-Inch 20-Tooth Jig Saw Blades, 5-Pack(if you'll ever get excited about a saw blade, this is it)

With summer getting into its swing, a lot of us are looking to clean up the beards we've let go through the spring. What better way to get into the spirit of a new smooth skin routine than with some DIY shaving cream tailor made to our favorite scents?   

This guide from EveryDayRoots.com has a snappy recipe for silky smooth shaving cream that's entirely chemical-free. According to some hippie-leaning friends of mine, the chemical-free part is what helps counteract razor burn for those with sensitive skin. You can use a variety of methods to give your shaving cream the individual, manly scent you'd like to be known by. And the best part is that almost all of the supplies are easily found in your basic kitchen pantry!

I've never been a morning person. Or rather, I've never been a waking up person. I've recently been trying to work my schedule forward because I've discovered firsthand how immensely more productive I can be when I take advantage of those early hours.   

Jack Archer of Airows recently post these great tips and I'm working on taking them to heart. One thing that his list implies which I never seriously considered until now is getting an actual alarm clock. Most guys I know use their phones as their morning wake-up device which naturally leads us to check out Facebook, email, Instagram, and/or Twitter before even getting out of bed. Not only does this inevitably waste time, but then my precious, recently-cleared headspace is immediately filled up with the impressions, thoughts, demands, and general noise of the people around me. 

I'll be purchasing a simple alarm clock this week and charging my phone outside of my bedroom just to see where that gets me. I'll keep you posted.

Check out the list with all its tips and get a move on your mornings.

Looking for a last minute Father's Day gift? Just like to add a little texture and warmth to some everyday items? Check out this simple woodgrain flask tutorial.    

It's your everyday stainless flask (you can find one at the grocery store) styled up with some wood grain contact paper (available at the home improvement store or online) and a paint marker.

If you're not into the calligraphy name look, you could add some old sailor tattoo imagery, vintage outdoor-type stuff, or just leave it smooth. 

Check out the tutorial from Molly at Almost Makes Perfect: DIY Wood Grain Flask

Earlier this year,  we posted about the fascinating story of the invention of the AeroPress, a $25 plastic device that makes the best single cup of home-brewed coffee we've ever tasted. Our readers seemed to like that post so much, so we reached out to Aerobie (makers of the AeroPress, and, yes, the amazing flying disc) and asked if they'd let us give away a few ... and they gave a very enthusiastic and caffeinated thumbs up. 

Can't wait to see if you win the giveaway? Or just want to read all the reviews? Click here for the full product listing at Amazon. It has a 4.6/5-star rating with 3,500 reviews!

Anyway, this isn't a sponsored post, and we're not getting paid to endorse this product (we just seriously, truly love it and wake up in the middle of the night thinking about delicious coffee). We like an opportunity to give our devoted readers free stuff! Here's what you have to do to enter to win of of the three AeroPresses we have to give away:

It may look like some artistic centerpiece, or a European stereo piece, but it's more than that, it's the most beautiful pinhole camera you will ever see.   Most of my pieces come out of the shop more useful than beautiful. While I'm always happy to produce a piece that looks great, that isn't generally where my mind begins. Here on the other hand is a piece designed by Kurt Mottweiller that just screams exceptional design from it's core.

The Pinhole camera has brass and aluminum features, a curved front, and professional-grade results that produce 6 by 9 format panoramic  shots with an almost 90 degree field of vision. Here's a shot from the camera:

While these cameras are no longer available due to the extreme cost that comes from making such a piece of artistic excellent, it's always nice to see a dedication to form and function that far outweigh the pieces I have on my bench right now.

Take some time this week to take a look at your own projects and see what can be done to make them as excellent as they are useful.

In the winter of 1965, Gary Talese was flown out to Los Angeles with a assignment to profile the legendary Frank Sinatra. Sinatra at this point was aged and uncomfortable, with no intention of being interviewed. Rather than giving up, Talese decided to stick around and talk with Sinatra's assistants, valets, and even his personal toupee manager in the hopes that the Boss would come around. What resulted was a breakthrough piece of narrative nonfiction that spawned the birth of New Journalism and introduced America to the man behind the iconic voice and swagger.   

I was particularly struck by the piece as a lesson in dealing with creative roadblocks and being able to roll with the punches, while also providing an insight into the struggles and drive of a creative genius on whom some of America's mythology rested. You won't regret taking some time to read this. 

Frank Sinatra Has a Cold

Do you wish your kids were in a cool rock band? Do you wish you were in a cool rock band? Well, Rock Band Land can help with one of those things. At first glance, the San Francisco-based youth band camp might seem like just another ridiculous example of the artisanal-string-cheese-eating, urban-outfitted, hipster parenting you love to hate. But actually, it's a pretty awesome way to get kids involved a creative, artistic, collaborative expression.

And songs about cockroach villains who turn humans into sausages so they can sell them for a profit:

 (Ok, yeah, it's still pushing the hipster parenting needle a little bit, but come on ... don't you wish you could've done this when you were a kid?)

Rock out to the whole story at Priceonomics.