There are plenty of shelves in my shop that need doors to keep out the dust, and to keep the look of the shop more streamlined. These cheap doors are made from 2.5" pine boards and affordable 1/4" plywood. They still look great and function well, and they have enough heft to feel strong in your hand.  

Keep in mind, cheap wood can be hard to work with thanks to chipping, splitting, and warping, so choose nice straight boards that have been dried long enough to stay stable.

Here are the steps I took to make my affordable shop doors:

1. Measure them out - the doors should overhang the openings by about 1/2" on the outside edges and the top and bottom. This means you should measure the door openings, and add 1" for the top measurement and 1/2" for the hinge side of the doors.

2. Cut the backing board - These doors have a thin 1/4" backing board, with a frame over the top, and a thin strip on all sides to clean up the final appearance. To start, cut the backing board to size.

3. Cut the frame - The frame over the top is made from rails and stiles with half lap joints cut on the dado. This joint is strong and adds substantial gluing surface to make sure it stays strong and square.

4. Glue and clamp the frames - The frame pieces should match up nicely and should stay squared while clamping. Add glue and clamp overnight.

5. Glue the frames to the backing board - Apply a layer of glue around the edge of the frame on the inside and outside of the surface to be glued. Clamp evenly to make sure it is evenly applied. This took 3 clamps per side to make sure it was well glued.

6. Clean it up - Take just a small portion of each side off with the table saw to make sure it is square and smooth for the final thin strips, then apply the thin cover strips - The last step is to apply the thin strips along the outer edge for a clean finished look. this step is not necessary if you are fine with the exposed joinery, but they do add a nice element to the finished doors.

7. Install hinges and hang - Once the doors are complete, finish as you like and install hinges. I like these hinges from Amazon, but there are plenty of choices.

Since I will be making more of these for the bottom cabinets, I will keep them natural finish for now, but some finish should be applied to keep them from absorbing too much moisture during seasonal changes which will keep the movement of the doors to a minimum.

Now that the doors are getting installed, the next step will be to move onto the rolling tool island that will hold my planer, bandsaw, jigsaw, grinder, and maybe something else. It's a big build that will take a bit of time to get right, and I may have a vacation week stuck in there somewhere, but stay tuned for that update within the next 3 weeks or so!

If you only think of a denim jacket as something to throw over a t-shirt, we hope this post will change your mind. Just as blue jeans can be dressed up and down, denim jackets are actually quite versatile. Paired with basic black pants and trench coat, a denim jacket can feel casually sophisticated. Throw a denim jacket over a camo blazer to give a peek of on-trend pattern. And since they work perfectly for fall, here are five ways to pull it off during this most amazing of seasons. Check out these tips from Jason of Captain Dapper. 

1. This is the perfect collection for all those fall weekends spent in pumpkin patches and hayrides.
Lived-in Skinny Khaki from Gap $59.95 | Slim Broken In Short Sleeve Henley from J.Crew $34.50 | Owen Denim Jacket from J Brand $295 | Down Field Jacket from Eddie Bauer $199

2. I'm a big fan of mixing patterns. For the pattern shy, you'll only get a hint of the camo blazer under the trucker jacket.
Rodeo Trouser from Mr. Turk $288 | Benjamin Blue Oxford Shirt from Ernest Alexander $135 | Green Camouflage Skinny Blazer from TopMan $80 | Commuter Trucker Jacket from Levi's $128

3. With or without a tie, this is a great look for a chilly, rainy day of fall meetings.
Navy Work Day Wool Pants from Bonobos $165 | White Cotton Shirt from H&M $39.95 | American Made Denim Jacket from Abercrombie & Fitch $200 | Khaki Double Breasted Trench from Top Man

4. This is a look that says, "I just rode my motorcycle through the desert. Now, get me a drink."
William Rast Davis Tapered Jeans from JC Penney $19.99 | Striped Long Sleeve Henley from American Eagle $29.95 | Icon Denim Jacket from Lucky Brand $129 | Natural Leather Moto Jacket from Todd Snyder $1,295

5. A big bulky shawl neck sweater is a perfect top layer for this colorful casual look.
Slim-Fit Corduroy Trousers from Mr. Porter $335 | Short Sleeve Crew Neck T-Shirt from Sunspel $70 | 1969 Heritage Denim Jacket from Gap $79.95 | Structured Cable Cardigan from Scotch and Soda $259

This ManMade guest post was written by Jason Loper, the creator of Captain Dapper. Follow along with his adventures on Instagram. It was originally published in September 2013.

Furniture made from pallets is always awesome in theory but I've definitely sat on some rickety and scratchy attempts that never really turned out the right way. So with that out of the way, I'll say that it looks nearly impossible to go wrong with this one. It's simple, sturdy, and has a limited number of steps.   

The tutorial comes from cjose maria via Instructables.com with easy pictures and explanations. The lounge chair is made to accommodate your three standard lounging positions, 90, 75, and 65 degrees and with a little throw pillow you'll be comfy in any position. A great weekend project with an end product that suits both the outdoor patio or the indoor bachelor's pad. 

Check out the full tutorial here.

Why Do I Need One?

 

 

What Should You Look For in a Circular Saw?

Which One Should I Buy?

Bole Tannery has been making their own reindeer (!) and cattle leather goods from vegetable tanned leather in their Swedish workshop for generations. Take a look at what it means to create vegetable tanned leather goods from hide to final rucksack.   

Bole is the last spruce bark tannery in the world, working with Swedish cattle and Nordic reindeer hide to make products built to age with style. The folks over at Merchants and Makers took the time to talk with Bole about the process, and the in-depth story is worth a read. The quality of the products the tannery produces are incredibly classy, like this reindeer hide rucksack:

And the incredibly upscale Double Minister Briefcase:

For more great pictures and a great in-depth look at the tannery, take a look at their Interview here.

Plants, my friends. Plants. Succulents, ferns, ivies, flowers, cacti, sedum, even tiny trees are all an awesome way to bring some life into any space, indoors or out. These simple, rustic boxes allow you to get the plants off the floors and flat surfaces and onto the walls, where they can be seen and get the light they need. The boxes make it easy to combine a variety of pots, containers, and hanging planters, and maintain a cohesive vibe.   Here, you don't have to worry about all your planters and pots working together; just place or hang them inside these simple shadow boxes, and the whole thing comes out like an installation or gallery-style collection of living wall art. 

Oh! And get this...

If you want to learn to make your own hanging planter for fall, you can sign up for this free DIY Workshop at your local Home Depot this Saturday. It's available at Home Depot locations all across the U.S., and it's totally free.

The DIY Hanging Planter Workshop takes place this Saturday, September 12, 2015 from 10:00 - 11:30AM. You can find more details and register at the Home Depot Workshops page. 

If you live near Tucson, Arizona, I, Chris Gardner from ManMade, will be teaching the workshop at the E. Broadway Home Depot (Store #410, 7677 E Broadway Blvd) If you're in the area, this is an awesome opportunity for me to meet  and collaborate with ManMade readers, and I've love to hang out with you and use some power tools for a day.

So, head to the Home Depot DIY Workshops page to sign up, and we'll see you on Saturday. 

SIGN UP HERE!

Tools and Materials

• 5/8" x 5 1/2" #2 cedar fence pickets, 6' long
• Cedar 1x2", 8' long (or scraps)
• Circular saw or other crosscut saw
• Electric drill
• Random orbit sander and sanding disks
• Pocket hole jig and 1" screws
• 1 1/2" #8 flat head screws
• Wood finish and brush

This project is made from rough sawn cedar fence pickets. These have a dog-eared cut on one side and a shaggy finish that give the boxes some great texture, and they're very inexpensive. (They cost $2.18 at my local Home Depot).  You can build one 18" square box from one picket (or two smaller ones), which makes for a very economical project, and a great way to whip up several of these at a time. 

1. Here, I'm making an 18" box, but you can scale this project up or down as needed. Use a crosscut saw to cut off the dog ear end of the picket, and then cut two 18" lengths.

Then,  subtract the doubled thickness of the wood (5/8 x 2 = 1 1/4), and cut the two sides. So, here, 18 - 1 1/4 = 16 3/4". 

2. To hold things together, I used a pocket hole jig and 1" screws. This is a simple way to make strong face and butt joints, and a nice way to keep the hardware hidden on the inside of the boxes. I used the Kreg R3 jig and the Kreg face clamp to quickly drill two pocket holes on both ends of the side pieces. Then, I attached them to the top and bottom with 1" fine thread pan head pocket hole screws. (I like this multi pack of common screw sizes.)

3. Next, cut two cross bars from cedar 1x2 to attach to the top and bottom of the box. You can cut them to fit inside the box and sit flush with the back, or simply attach them to the outside. This provides strength to the structure and prevents racking from side to side, and also creates a place to attach the boxes to the wall. 

Attach them to the boxes with 1 1/2" screws, or, if you've placed them on the inside, use the pocket hole jig again.

4. I then repeated steps one-three to make two additional boxes, 12" and 9" square. By keeping things in multiples of three and spacing them 6" apart, I was able to get the gridded look I was going for. 

5. Sand the structures, but don't completely remove the mill marks and texture from the wood. This gives the boxes an aged, weather character. I used 100 grit to remove large pieces of grain and splinters, then did a quick pass with 150 to smooth things over. 

5. Since I'm using my boxes outside, I finished them with an outdoor friendly stain that works well with cedar. Feel free to finish yours in whatever wood tones make sense, or paint them any color you like. 

6. Lastly, I attached a 1 1/4" cup hook to the top of the 18" to attach a hanging planter.  Attach them to walls via the 1x2 slats with the appropriate hardware and...

BOOM! You're done. 

Once these are in the walls, you can switch out the goods inside as seasons change, or easily add more boxes as your collection of plants grows. 

Remember, you can sign up for the free hanging planter DIY Workshop at your local Home Depot on Saturday, September 12th. And if you're in Tucson, I'll see you on Saturday!

SIGN UP HERE!

Thanks to Home Depot for sponsoring this post and making ManMade a partner for the 2015 DIY Workshop series. Thank you for supporting the brands that make ManMade possible. 

Need to make something flat and smooth? This Bridge Planer will get smooth, even results on pieces too wide to fit through your normal planer.   This router bridge is a simple design and Matthew Cremona goes through a great overview of how it works and how to make your own if you happen to have a board that needs to be uniformly flattened. Take a look at his video and file it under "when I need this I'll be able to do it".

A few things to keep in mind -

1. Keep the workpiece secured to the surface to maintain control

2. The workpiece will only be as flat as the surface it's on. Make sure the surface is completely free of small pieces of sawdust or errant specks.

3. The router shouldn't be in contact with the wood when started up. It can spin the wood or the tool out of control.

Living in Los Angeles, I spend and unbelievable amount of time in my car everyday, so I have an intense appreciation for the conveniences that every man should have on the go. Some are truly life-saving and some just feel life-saving, but here's an infographic from Art of Manlinessdetailing the things every man ought to have in his car.

To this list, we'd add: mints or breath freshening gum, floss picks, nail clippers, and an umbrella. If not for you, then for that cute girl that needs it.    

Check out the full infographic here: Things Every Man Should Have in His Car: An Illustrated Guide

Each Wednesday, I post some of my favorite can't-miss links, images, and otherwise mindblowing goodies from across the web. 

This excellent collection of coffee blogs, news sources, and social media accounts worth following will make you wish it was already tomorrow morning.    

Check out the full list at The Kitchn: 9 Blogs for Coffee Lovers

A super simple, straightforward mini-woodworking project. It's amazing what a little math can do. DIY Triangle Shelves [DesignSponge.com]

The Draft Top safely cuts beer cans to turn them into glasses so you can better experience what's inside. It's looks to be awesome,  but that $45 price point seems like it might be a sticking point for the general public. It looks well made and I'm sure its worth it, but not sure for whom that's a $45 need aching to be solved.  Check out their Kickstarter: Draft Top

This dude sure can make a sand sculpture. See more at Junkculture: Matt Kaliner Creates Spontaneous Sand Sculptures Using Water Sand and Driftwood

Oh my. Dovetail Record Crate by Symbol Audio

Our strongest materials age and fade with time, but often at a speed that's far too slow for mere mortals to perceive. Not too long ago, a Madrid-based ad agency put together this time-lapsed advertisement to demonstrate the erosion capabilities of a new class of Cubitron II abrasives from 3M. The video allows you to see an entire motorcycle engine sift away before your eyes like a real world cutaway illustration, all set to some beautifully entrancing music.   

3M Metal Master from espadaysantacruz studio on Vimeo.

There's something of the Ozymandian dream here, watching the controlled erosion of what would normally take an endless string of tomorrows creeping in its petty pace, but here it all unfolds in less than three minutes. 

You spend so much time in your shop, isn't it about time to spend a little time on it? Here's a solid upgrade that will get you breathing easier while out there making cuts.   I've been upgrading plenty of items in my shop lately, starting with my cabinets and doors. But before I head on to another big project, it's time to work on the bones of theshop a bit by installing my dust collection runs and a hard-lined compressor line (look for that next week). The benefit of a dust collection system simply cannot be overstated. While it won't collect every bit of the sawdust, the substantial reduction makes life so much easier. Once the system is lined in and working right, expect a cleaner shop, healthier lungs, and a happier family.

I started out my system with a simple 2 hp system from Harbor Freight. It may not be the best quality out there, and the filter bag is certainly not perfect; but for the price it's an affordable system that works. I waited until a double sale with a coupon and picked it up for $149, so be sure to watch for the opportunity to pick it up priced right.

ManMade Recommended:

• 2 HP Dust Collection System from Harbor Freight $150-$200
• Rikon 60-100 1 HP Dust Collector - $265
• JET DC-650BK Dust Collector with Bag Filter Kit - $328.49 

Because of the accessibility of my attic space, I was able to install the collector in the attic space above my shop and punch a hole in the ceiling to run the ducts. This kept the ducting out of the way, and helps to keep the noise of the collector to a minimum.

Gates

I used a splitter with blast gates to break the line into two runs, one currently going to my island (router table, Band Saw, Flexible Vacuum hose for floors), and the other going to the exterior wall (Radial Arm Saw and Table Saw). It's important to install enough blast gates to isolate each tool for maximum suction of the tool. The plastic gates are prone to clogging, but still function well on the cheap, but if you have a bit more cash go for the more expensive Aluminum Gates which are more durable, seal better, and clog much less.

ManMade Recommended:

Plastic- Woodstock 4 in. Blast Gates $10 each

Aluminum- Woodstock 4 in. Blast Gates $15 each

Ducting-

The next piece of the collection system is the ducting. There is plenty of debate on what type of ducting to use, and there are plenty of options. Metal, PVC and Flexible Plastic Spiral pipes are the most common types, and each has a benefit. Plan on 4" ducting, with a few tools reduced to 2 1/2" to match up to their dust ports. To connect the ducting to the walls, I used pipe straps secured to the walls with 2" boards. This method is easy to adjust when the shop needs change in the future.

1. Metal Ducting - This is the most expensive option, and for good reason. The products snap together for a clean seal, and the smooth inner dimension lightens up the drag for better suction. A 5' section is about $50 so the costs will add up fast.

2. Plastic Corrugated Pipe - This is the cheap version that I ended up going with. The material is smooth, it's easy to cut, and it's light enough on my wallet to make the project affordable (only $10 for 10 ft.). Joints should be taped or glued to really seal it up, but slip fits seem to hold up well without leaking in my shop.

3. PVC Pipe - This pipe is strong with a very smooth interior, it's easy to cut and joints are fast and easy. The price is just about in the middle ($27 for 10 ft.) between metal and corrugated, so it's a good option as well.

4. Flexible Spiral Pipe - This type of pipe should only be used for short runs from hard pipe to the machines, as the interior is uneven and dramatically increases drag, but it's great in hard to reach areas, or on machines that move around a bit. My favorite type is Rockler's Flexible Hose ($30 for 10 ft.), but the Dust Right Expandable Hose ($50 for 15ft.) is also great for cleaning up around the shop.

ManMade Recommended:

1. Metal - Grizzly 4" Industrial Ducting $100/10 ft.

2. Plastic - Hancor 4" Corrugated Pipe $10/10 ft.

3. PVC - Charlotte 4" Pipe $27/10 ft.

4. Flexible Spiral Pipe - Rockler Flexible Hose $30/10 ft.

Connectors -

The last part of the dust collection system are the connections. Here's a great article on dust collection design flaws to avoid. The main one is to avoid sharp turns, so use two 45 degree turns instead of a single 90; also, use y-connections instead of t-connections. I used PVC connections to connect my corrugated piping, they fit well, the joints are cheap, easy to find, and installation is clean and easy. An easy way to start is the Dust Right 4" Dust Collection Starter Kit, or just pick and choose the pieces you need.

It's important to plan out the project in detail to make sure it fits properly with the rest of the pieces. I had to route mine around the garage door, some lighting, and cabinets. I'm glad I took the time or it would have been a beast to adjust with pieces on the walls. With the dust collection system installed again, it's time to get back to making sawdust in the shop!

I've always been a sucker for rustic decor, and the tasteful ambiance provided by lanterns are solidly in that category. However, if you opt for a lantern in your interior (or exterior) design, it really ought to be functional (and therefore probably electric) but still keeping the charm of the flickering, homey light. Enter this design from "dtt900653" that meets all the criteria.   

Designed by an electrical engineer who was hoping to liven up his backyard, these instructions not only show you how to build the lantern, but how to rig multiple lanterns to function individually. 

Check out the tutorial on Instructables: Flickering Lantern

This is my kind of woodworking project. It solves a practical problem (it's a monitor stand and desk storage unit), and it's built with solid technique and classic materials, treated minimally to show off their natural beauty.   

My pal Evan from Mr. Lentz came up with this solution to elevate his sweetheart's computer monitor and provide some desktop storage and lots of style. It uses rabbet joints on the top and base, which add strength to the construction under the weight of the monitor. A sliding drawer and leather pull adds a spot for goodies.

Here, Evan uses a router and fence system to cut a mortise for the drawer bottom and sides. If you want a simpler version, you can build a simple drawer box using the same rabbet joints, and just add the drawer face to the front. 

Check out the full build process filled with lots of great photos at Mr. Lentz (and be sure to visit the store while you're there): How to Make a Small Drawer

As autumn cools the air here in the south you will quickly find all the campgrounds and nature centers booked up from September through November. It seems like everyone comes out of their humidity-soaked habitats and are starved to trek all the great mountains and valleys all across the southeast. Hiking season is upon us!

As often as I find myself trekking through the trails and byways of Nashville and surrounding areas, I am constantly forgetting to pack the proper goods and gear for our trips. So, I've made myself a simple list of all the things I may want to think about as I plan for my trip.

Shoes

If you find that you’re hiking more than once or twice a month, you might want to invest in a pair of hiking shoes. Otherwise, you don’t need a fancy pair just to gallivant around a worn path, just something with a tough sole and decent grip.

Backpack

I don’t always tote all the listed things, especially if it’s going to be a scorcher outside, but if you happen to need something to carry your goods for a hike, just grab your old backpack and fill it up! No need to get the sportiest and lightest bag from the outdoor store.

Apps!

I love using my run-tracking app to tell me how far I’ve walked and how far I have left. Something like Map My Run or Map my Hike works just fine. There's also a few really great apps for your inner outdoorsman like All Trails that will map out more than 50,000 trails in the US or Project Noah for sharing, exploring and documenting wildlife around you.

Snacks and Water

Whether you buy it or make it you just can’t beat trail mix or meat jerky! I also love a good Kind or Lara bar. You’ll definitely anything small, lightweight and full of energy. 

And be sure to carry water with you, no matter the temp. A simple 24-32 oz bottle per person will do in normal temps for hikes under three hours.

Pocketknife

You never know when you might need a knife on a trail! Whether it’s observing plant specimen up close or cutting open your trail mix bag having a multi-tool at hand is always a win-win.

Walking Sticks

Depending on the kind of trail you take a walking stick can come in handy. Whether it's for added balance and stability or to simply reduce the swelling in your hands, a walking stick is a welcome friend on longer, more rigorous trails. Find one on the trail, or take along some trekking poles. I think a handmade walking stick might be a great post in the future! 

An Identification Book

Sometimes, I tend to speed through a short hike like I’m running a race. I end up staring at the ground as I walk and completely forget to look up! One of the ways I combat that is by taking the time to look at trees and see if I can identify them as I walk. If I’m ever stumped (which is all the time) I pull out my Audubon Tree Identification Guide. Depending on what you’re interested and where you’re hiking you can grab a bird, rock, plant or tree identification guide and easily add an hour or two to your trip. If you don't want to tote a tome, there's certainly apps for any of those things too!

Camera

Depending on what kind of hike you find yourself in, think about what kind of camera you want to bring. If it’s a rugged trail with lots of climbing, you might not want to bring a DSLR with a $2,000 lens. For shorter trips, I bring my compact DSLR for longer trips I bring my iphone. Either one packs light and doesn’t require a chiropractor readjustment afterwards.

A Sketchbook or Journal

Sketching and journaling is another great way to get the most out of a trip.  Unless your goal is to hike to the summit of a mountain, getting to the end of a trail isn’t always the best mindset for hiking. Take some time to sit and absorb the internet-free silence of our planet. This is your chance to be just like Thoreau, instead of Instagraming it write it down and keep it to yourself.

Binoculars 

Depending on what kind of hike you're going on or where it is, you might want a pair of lightweight binoculars. I could spend hours just sitting at a vista point and looking at what's below me. I've spotted all kinds of wildlife just a few yards from me and binoculars make it feel like inches. It's a total must-have if you don't mind adding the weight.

Use your judgement when you are packing for your next hike! If you plan to walk 5-10 miles in a day, you might not want all of these goods in your backpack. Sticking to the essentials will make for a less sweaty and tiresome walk. If your walk is short but full of points of interest, you may want to pack all these items I've listed. Either way, as you plan your next hiking excursion, remember to take it slow and take it in. The world is a beautiful place!

Working in my small shop, I've tripped over my air hoses countless times. And many times an air hose has snagged on something a pulled a tool off the work bench (dangerous!). That ends today with wall-mounted air lines.   Adding hard-lined air compressor lines in the shop eliminates the need to stretch air hoses across the room, reduces set-up time, and eliminates a tripping hazard. There are a few options on materials, set-up, and design; but there are also some hard and fast rules to never follow when installing a system:

1. Never, ever use PVC piping. It’s designed for water, not air. The problem with PVC comes down to the amount of compression water has vs. air. While the details are pretty technical, the jist is that air can be compressed much more than water at the same PSI, so if there is a burst in the line, the pipe literally explodes (think plastic shrapnel) from the expansion. I opted for Black metal pipe for a few reasons, namely it’s cheap, easy to work with, and as a bonus - won’t explode into flying shrapnel. It will likely rust a bit after years of use, but a flush at that time should address that. Other options are galvanized pipe, copper piping, or even reinforced rubber hoses (hoses designed for air compressors).

2. Be sure to manage condensation. Compressed air carries moisture that can sit in the pipes and damage tools if not properly managed. Add a bit of slope to your runs, tap in on the top of pipes to minimize any water to outlets, and put a valve in the low point for draining.

With those tips in mind, let’s dive right in.

Plan It Out

While a SketchUp or blueprint is admirable, a simple diagram should suffice for most standard installations. Start at the compressor and think about a few things. First, be sure to plan for future expansion of the system if you think it might happen. What happens if you get a bigger compressor, will it still fit in the same corner? Consider where else it would go and plan accordingly or you will be wishing you did down the line.

Standard piping to use for the lines should be ½” or larger, depending on anticipated use and needs (and budget). Remember that the standard fittings are ¼”, so reduction adapters will be needed at the points where lines come from the compressor and then at all outlets to the tools. Also plan for including filters/separators or in-line oilers if the tools you will be using need them. A few things to plan in –

              1. Drain Valve – The best way to be sure you can collect the water from the pipes is to put a drain valve in the bottom of a U-shaped part of the system right after the air comes from the compressor. This will allow for collection and drainage of condensation as needed (after every use).

              2. Regulator – A regulator and pressure valve at the point where the line comes from the compressor – and even at outlets where low-pressure tools may be used – is a good idea. This allows for monitoring pressure and fine tuning without a visit to the compressor.

Collect the Parts –

This takes quite a bit of planning to get right, and plan on at least a few trips back for that one extra fitting you forgot. Also consider painting the pipes with spray paint to make them uniform and clean-looking. Be sure to grab U-brackets to hold the whole system to the wall (and drywall anchors if needed). The brass connectors will be located in the air-compressor section, but all other items should be in the plumbing area. Pipes come in threaded sections of various size from 3” to 10’, so measure well and get the pieces you need.

Lay Out the Pieces, Then Assemble

On a flat floor, start to lay out all of the pieces in order to make sure it all fits together. This will be the time you realize you are about four fittings short and have to make another trip to the store.

Check the measurements and then double check the wall to confirm it all fits properly. Once everything is laid out, start wrapping all threads with sealant tape and screw together. The easiest tool for this is a pipe wrench, crescent wrench, and creative leverage. Some pieces screw down easily, but there are bound to be a few that are stubborn enough to be a problem.

When forcing pieces, be sure to keep away from the threads with tools, as shredded threads don’t hold a seal well. A few small 3-4” pieces of extra pipe can be easily screwed in to provide temporary leverage. Test the system on the ground to make sure it’s sealed up well.

Wall Mount

Once the whole system is together and tested, get it up on the wall and put in place. Mounting on the wall can be a two person job, as the whole assembly is bulky and awkward to manage. Be sure to install the system with a slight angle towards the U-shaped drainage area to make sure all condensation can run back to that low point. If installing in drywall, screw u-brackets to the studs, or install drywall anchors to hold the weight. Be sure to install brackets close to the tool outlets to protect against pulling when the tools are plugged in.

Enjoy!

I immediately went out and grabbed a few coil hoses, and 5-foot rubber hoses which had no purpose before this system was in place. Having no hoses running across the shop is such a great upgrade to any shop, and with only a few hours of work it was a quick project that didn’t break the bank. Altogether, I installed 3 outlets with ½” black piping (about 9’ total length) for about $100. The most expensive pieces were the two brass on/off valves and the brass outlets for the tools.

This is the most informative collection of men's fashion terms and history that I've found on the internet so far. Each fashion icon comes with some quick facts (Corduroy gets its name from the French "cord du roi" or the cord of the king, and has been around since ancient Egypt), but then each item breaks out into an extensive history if you click on it. And all this comes from GQ, so you know they know what they're talking about.   

Click here to view the full guide. 

I always like to hear from other craftsmen about how they came into wood working, and their approach to the projects as they go. It’s always interesting to read or hear about what compels us to make, to create, to bring life to a pile of raw materials.   Here’s a short video about a company called Adventure Indoors who talk about their business of reclaiming wood and repurposing it into something more. Take a look at how they approach their passion, and what motivates them to create.

The company has since grown and changed it's name to Second Life Studios, which is perfectly fitting. Still, they maintain their passion for exceptional craftsmanship and the re-birthing of natural products into second lives as completely different but still uniquely similar pieces of beautiful furniture.

Do you have any wood ready for a second life? Take the time to look at what you have before you head off for another new board, that second life may be right there in your backyard.

Interested in starting down the road of metalworking but not sure where to start? Try this project to make a knife from a sawblade to get your hands a bit dirty.   Carrying something on the belt that came out your own shop is a huge symbol of pride for most makers. It’s the physical manifestation of a skill, and the demonstration of a job completely well done. A custom knife is a great project that gives a solid excuse to build up a few nice side projects at the same time, like a Soupcan Forge. The only other tools you probably have in the shop already, like some basic files and a solid place to hammer out the shape if needed.

I love this project because it doesn’t require an anvil (although it certainly helps), or large forge, a large vise helps but it's not essential. First, let’s talk about the metal –

Knife metal should be soft enough to be manipulated when working, but must also be hard enough to hold an edge after it’s finished. High carbon steel is the prime metal for knives and if you happen to have a few old saw blades in the shop, you’ve got some. If you don’t have saw blades, snoop around for some old files, but keep in mind that metal has a higher carbon content and will be harder to work.

Here’s the tutorial on repurposing those saw blades into something useful, 

Now that you’re inspired enough to go find those dusty blades, get to work turning them into something sharp enough to be proudly strapped to your belt.

I love coffee and I love whiskey, and here's the perfect recipe to combine them both in a drink with a history as rich and manly as its taste. Irish coffee as we know it was originally conceived by Joe Sheridan, the head chef at what later came to be Shannon International Airport in west Ireland. A flying-boat-full of American passengers disembarked after a particularly rough storm on a cold winter evening in the 1940's and Sheridan spiked their coffees with whiskey and some other ingredients to warm them up as fast as possible. When the passengers noticed the difference, they asked if they were drinking Brazilian coffee but were told instead that what they were drinking was "Irish coffee."

People nowadays tend to opt for the simple Bailey's route, but if you're looking to do it right, here's your recipethanks to Men's Journal. 

The dream of driving a flying car is something most of us associate with the Jetsons or Star Wars, but in reality their conceptions begin way way back. In fact, William Samuel Henson and John Stringfellow patented the flying car design seen above in 1841.. over 60 years before human flight was possible.    

Since then, designers have worked tirelessly to come up with a mode from private air travel that the common man can utilize, and now Popular Mechanics has provided the world with a brief visual history of flying cars. 

The series was inspired by an Esquire article by Steven Kotler about his new book, Tomorrowland: Our Journey from Science Fiction to Science Fact and delves deep into the imaginative appeal and commercial reality of everyday flying machines.