I love a tool whose common name indicates its purpose. Oh, what's a screwdriver do? A citrus squeezer? How about a box cutter? The function is all right there in the name. 

In many ways, a speed square falls right into the category. It tells helps you determine "square" - that is, when one edge or line is exactly 90° to another, and it helps you do it quickly. Done. Right? Wrong. 

Well, actually, yes, but, wait! There's more. 

A speed square is a carpenter's tool, not a fine woodworking tool. It's intended for quick and reliable marking of butt and miter joint lines, rather than precision layout of parts for furniture. And, in this case, that's a good thing: cause, combined with a tape measure, this will help you break down dimensional or "two-by" lumber in no time. When using a marking knife, I'll reach for a try or combination square; but anytime I'm using a pencil, the speed square is the way to go. 

Since it's a solid piece of metal with no joints or moving parts, a speed square can be used as a try square and a miter square, or, a simple way of marking 90° and 45°, due to the long fence that runs along one side. It protrudes on either side, allowing the square to be flipped and used on any edge. 

One of my favorite uses for the speed square is to scribe long lines parallel to the edge of a piece of plywood or solid wood, as for a rip cut. There are notches spaced every 1/4" on the inside of the square, allowing you to place a pencil in the notch, butt the fence firmly against and edge, and scribe a long straight line along the grain.

When making crosscuts along shorter widths of stock, a speed square makes a great fence with which to guide a hand held circular saw. Just use the square to mark the cut line, and then a guide line the same distance of the blade to the shoe plate's edge. If making a rip cut, use the scribing technique above. 

The speed square includes common angles for roofs, stairways, and decks, noted by the Hip - Val (hip and valley rafters) scale. That can take some practice to learn, and specific jobs to use. But along the hypotenuse edge lies a relatively accurate - and super fast - protractor: a way to read and mark angles.

It works like this. Find the pivot edge (the right angle) and hold it up to one side. On the opposite edge, find your angle, and align it to the same edge. The long side of the triangle - the hypotenuse - now crosses your project at your desired angle.

So, as an example, let's say you want to scribe a 20° line across the face of the stock. Do this:

Just make sure the pivot point is butted firmly against the edge once you've made your rotation. There. 20° line. Two seconds. 

The speed square's "rough and tumble" build quality is a strength, and key to its usefulness on a variety of projects. It's cast aluminum, not finely machined, which means you won't think twice about throwing it in a toolbox, taking it to a buddy's house, or using on a ladder above hard concrete, because there's no way for it to go out of whack. If you drop it, it'll still be a-okay. 

Oh, and they cost less than ten bucks. With that price, you might as well get two. Just make sure to keep the little blue book to reference in case you want to learn more about the Hip-Val scale. 

ManMade recommended: 

            Swanson Tool SO101 7-inch Speed Square -  $9.48 

            Swanson Tool SO107 12-Inch Speed Square - $18.23

Unless you're a millionaire, I always recommend going with used hand tools when getting started in woodworking. (Though, full disclosure, no millionaires have yet to ask my advice.) Vintage tools are plentiful, much less expensive, and depending on their age, usually a better, longer-lasting tool than you can buy at your local big box store. And the best part? Antique tools are more likely to be made in the USA or Europe, where they've been crafted from higher quality steels than modern tools from the home improvement center. 

Over the weekend, I found this nice, broad 1 1/2" chisel at a favorite antique mall, with a mere $7.50 on the price tag hanging from the handle. It was in mostly great condition. The top and back had been coarsely ground a few times, and the bevel wasn't square to the sides, but the steel was in beautiful shape and the handle looks like it's never been pounded on.     

Of course, I bought it, and I took it through the usual regimen to get it tuned up and sharp. Here's how to it. 

Here's the "before". This might look scary, but it's 10000% safe, because... 

This chisel was as dull as a soup spoon. 

In fact, were I in a street fight, I'd probably opt for a spoon over this thing just so I could at least get some good jabbing and digging action. 

There are four steps to a getting a chisel into good working order: cleaning the steel, flattening the back, grinding the bevel, and honing the cutting edge. If your handle is banged up beyond repair, you certainly can also make a new one, but that's beyond the scope of this guide. (Also, if you have the tools and knowhow to make a new chisel handle, you probably don't need me to walk you through the process.) The last three steps are also necessary for a new chisel as well, so once you master the process, you're set for your whole woodworking life. 

Cleaning the Steel

Here's the best news about restoring older tools: the appearance does not affect performance. In fact, the built-in patina is the coolest part about using vintage steel. But if the tool has any rust, it can eat away at the metal and leave pitting, so you'll want to remove it as best you can.

The most straightforward option is WD-40. Spray on a little, let it work its magic, and likely, it'll clean things up perfectly. If you need a little abrasion, some #0000 steel wool works great, or 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper.

If you have large spots of black rust, we highly recommend the Sandflex Rust Erasers for any and all removal needs. (Seriously, dude. I love those things.)

Flattening the Back

The back of a chisel should be polished and flat. This is both essential to creating a sharp cutting edge, and for doing accurate work, as the back of a chisel is used as a reference surface for chopping and paring. 

Begin by using a marker to color in top two inches or so of the back of the blade (above). This will help you monitor your progress – when the ink is completely gone, you'll know you've removed material across the entire back. 

Next, add the necessary lubrication to your stone, either water or oil depending on which you're using. For this, and basically any sharpening task, you'll want a coarse (1000 grit), medium (4000 grit) and fine stone (8000 grit). If you're just getting started, a 1000/8000 combination water stone is a great way to save a bit of money. 

Press down on the front of the blade, using as many fingers as will fit to provide firm, even pressure. Allowing the far end of the blade to hang off the edge, work your way back and forth across the stone. 

Periodically check your progress to see how much material you've removed. Move your fingers accordingly on any remaining inked spots to work evenly. 

Keep going until you see a consistent scratch pattern all the way across the back of the chisel, and all the ink has disappeared. 

Then, repeat the process on your medium and fine stones.

When you're done, you should have a mirror-like surface in the back. Wave to yourself! 

Grinding the Bevel

Next, you'll want to do the coarse work to create the bevel on the front of the tool. This can be done with a bench grinder or specialty sharpening tool, but can also be accomplished more simply, and less expensively, with a flat surface, some sandpaper, and a honing guide. 

The easiest method is 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper stuck to a flat surface, such as a jointer bed, a slab of granite, or a thick piece of plate glass. 

Next, determine the angle to which you want to sharpen. I have this helpful little bevel gauge, but you could use a protractor or a print out from the internet to figure out the existing angle. Most tools factory-ground at 25°, but it's not universal. In the photo, you can see mine was at 20°, which is too low for me. (I like to grind at 30° and hone at 35°.)

You can find these simple "Eclipse"-style honing guides at any woodworking shop, or online. They're not perfect, but they're inexpensive and get the job done. 

The angle is determined by how far the blade protrudes from the guide. Your guide will come with details, and there's also this helpful list at Lie-Nielsen's website. I'm going for 30°, so I set mine to 30mm, or 1 5/32". 

Then, place the whole apparatus on the sandpaper, and start to grind. You want to keep even finger pressure on the tip of the blade. (Note: I am not doing this in the photos, because I'm an idiot and totally forgot when taking this picture.) 

You might want to begin with pull strokes only, then switch to a back-and-forth motion once you get the hang of it. 

Keep working until you can see the bevel change, noting how the tip reflects light. You don't need to grind the whole length of the bevel to get sharp, just the business end.

Honing the Edge

Grinding produces the shape of the bevel. Honing makes it sharp. The remainder of the process is straightforward. Keep the chisel in the honing guide, as with grinding, (you can adjust the position by 5° to create a micro bevel) and use the marker to color the tip. Start working on your coarsest stone until you've removed the ink and you can feel a raised burr all along the back.

Then, Work your way through the medium and fine stones, using the marker trick each time to track your progress. Once the finest stone has removed it gone, you're sharp. Lastly, use the finest stone to remove the burr.

And with that, you're done. Good as (not) new.  

A sharp chisel should be able to cut the end grain of a soft wood, so find a scrap of pine or fir and give it a go. 

And - because why not - try out the classic sheet of paper test. 

When you're done sharpening, be sure to dry the steel thoroughly to remove any remaining water, and apply your prefered rust-prevention measurements ASAP. 

You can see how the original bevel was not square to the sides by the slight angle of the new one. 

Your chisel is ready to work. Please let me know if you have any questions or thoughts in the comments below. 

Sure, every once in a while, you choose to intentionally drill a hole at a specific angle. Perhaps your compound joinery demands it, or you're going for a stylish, contemporary look on a project.

But most of the holes we drill — I'd hazard to say a good 99% of them — are intended to be drilled straight on, perfectly perpendicular to the surface. You can do this precisely with a drill press, but many makers don't have one, and they require specific set up and work that's small enough to be placed on the table. 

So that leaves the cordless drill. A tool that, when balanced on the tip of a drill bit, can be easily canted and slanted off square in every single direction, especially when you're putting force behind it. 

But! The task is not impossible. Yes, DIYers, you can drill a perfect 90° hole with a cordless drill. Here's how it's done.     

First, Set Yourself Up for Success.

When you need to drill a perfect, 90° hole, you need to concern yourself with the angle of the drill and bit and nothing else. So, to make it easier, always make sure you create a small starting divot with an awl so your drill bit has a place to land. This way, you bit placement is set, and you can worry about the other moving parts.

The Commercial Option

The Milescraft DrillBlockis a simple and super handy aid made for exactly this task. It only costs $8, and it helps you create perfectly square holes in 1/16" increments from 1/8 – 1/2". It's a seriously good value, and if you use a cordless drill more than a couple times a year, it's a no brainer. Get one. 

You just place it over your drill bit, set the bit on your mark, secure it with your hand or a clamp, and drill.

Bonus:  the DrillBlock has a v-groove on the bottom, allowing you to drill 45° holes into corners and edges with ease. 

The DIY Option

Okay, but let's say it's 10:00 p.m. on a Saturday, and you need to keep going with your project. Or, perhaps you need a hole that's not in increments of 1/16". Or any other of the dozen reasons you might need to drill a straight hole without the aid of the commercial guide. Well, then, my friend, you make your own.

It's deceptively simple. Start with some wood scrap, about 1 1/2" wide and 10" long.  Cut off 2" from one end, ensuring the cut is perfectly square. 

Spread a little wood glue on the cut off, then place it on the longer piece 1" from the end. Use a square to make sure the two pieces are aligned.

Clamp the pieces together while the glue sets up.  (If you're in a hurry, you can set the alignment with screws and get on with your project.)

To use it, simple line up the drill bit with the corner created by the guide. Use your hand or a clamp to secure it to the work, line up, and go. You'll bore hundreds of spot-on holes of any size. Eventually it'll wear out, any you can just slap two pieces of scrap together and make another one. 

The Reusable Jig

If you need to drill a lot of hole of the same size, you can modify the DIY jig for even more consistency. Go to the brass and aluminum rod sections of the hardware store or hobby shop, and look for a tube with an internal diameter than matches your drill bit. This won't be the number on the label, so take your drill bit or a pair of calipers with you to measure. Cut a 1 1/2"-ish piece off the end.

Then, use some hot melt glue to secure it to one of the sides of your drill guide. You've essentially made a collet to guide the bit, which uses the same principle at the DrillBlock above.

Now... let's check our work.

Nailed it!

Working with leather only needs to be as complicated as you want it to be. You can go deep, and get involved in stitching ponies, floral stamps, and swivel knives, or you can keep things simple with straightforward shapes and basic tools.   

This how-to from Fairgoods shows you how to create a sharp, classic leather bag or luggage tag, which beats the pants off that plastic-y job your suitcase came with. Or, you can get creative and make tags for anything you like... like your whiskey decanter ;) 

If you want to take this up a notch, you can stain or dye the leather, or just ink the embossed recessed so the letters will stand out a little more. 

See how its done (plus a bonus project) at the Fairgoods blog - Father’s Day DIY: Embossed leather tag and tie clip

Editor's note: From time to time, we like to feature the voices of ManMade readers on the site. We love hearing what you're up to, what you're making, and how you stay creative. When ManMade reader Scott Huntington wrote in share his love of classic cars and the work that goes into restoring them, I asked him to share his experience. 

Restoring a classic car can be a fantastic way to bring a piece of automotive history back to life, especially if you've found a rare model that needs a bit of extra TLC. Here are seven things that need to be on your list of things to do when restoring a classic car, just to make sure that all your Ts are crossed, Is are dotted, and bolts are properly torqued.    

1. Finding the Car and Finding the Parts

The first step is to find your car — and then to find replacement antique car parts.  Do you have a specific make, model and year in mind or are you just looking for a project car? If you have a particular vehicle in mind, first make sure you're going to be able to find the parts for it — even if you can't get them locally, are they available?

This is when you should decide whether you're going to be okay with replacement parts or if you're going to stick to original parts wherever possible. Original parts are a great way to make your restored car as authentic as possible, but they may be difficult to obtain depending on the make and model of your classic car. If you're planning on aiming for one of the higher levels of car restoration, you should consider seeking out original parts whenever possible.

2. Decide What Type of Restoration to Do

There are four different levels of classic car restoration, and each one requires more work than the last. Driver restoration is the basic level — you get the car back on the road and operational and fix some minor cosmetic problems. If you're just restoring this car for your personal use, this is probably all you need to do unless there is some significant body damage.

Street show restoration is a step above driver restoration — you're restoring the car and repairing all major and minor aesthetic issues.

Show car restoration will probably require some professional work. This is a car that you probably won't be driving much once you restore it.

Concourse is the highest level — you should only aim for that if you're planning on putting your car in a private collection. Cars restored to concourse level aren't designed to be driven and are usually only completed by professionals.

3. Update the Safety Equipment

One of the most prominent problems with old cars is that their safety equipment isn't always up to snuff — they don't have airbags and could probably stand to have their seatbelts replaced to ensure that you and your passengers are safe in the event of a car accident. Even Jay Leno adds seatbelts to his older classic cars if they didn’t come installed initially.

You can also upgrade the electronics, the radio and even the air conditioning without the change being too noticeable. Of course, you don't have to worry about alterations being too obvious if you're just restoring the car for yourself — go crazy and bring your classic car into the 21st century with things like heads-up displays, Bluetooth enabled entertainment or other safety features like rearview cameras and parking sensors.

4. Pick up a Restoration Book

You buy a Haines manual when you start working on a new car — why wouldn't you pick up a restoration manual for your classic car restoration project? These books can walk you through everything from rebuilding an engine to the most common body restoration problems. If you're handy with cars, you might not even need it, but it never hurts to have some extra resources when you're working on a big project like this.

While you're looking at your restoration book, sign up for a few car restoration forums. Even if you're not especially social, these forums can be a great resource if you run into a problem that you can't solve with a restoration book or owner's manual.  These people are puzzling through the same issues that you are, and they may come up with some ways to fix a problem that you'd never even thought of!

5. Know Your Limits

Restoration's not as easy as doing maintenance on your daily driver. Take the time to assess your skills and know your limits before you buy your project car. If you're expecting to have to ask for help for any part of the restoration, make sure that there are local mechanics that can help — you're not going to take this project car to your local Jiffy Lube, after all.

6. Don’t Expect to Resell It

There are plenty of TV shows and websites that claim that you can restore your project car and resell it for thousands of dollars in profit.  Unless you've found an extremely rare model— and the chances of that are minimal — your project car will be something for you and you alone. You will probably end up spending more money to restore the car than you'd ever make back selling it.

If you're a junkyard junkie, you might get lucky and find a project car that is worth a lot. One of the two Mustangs used in the 1968 movie Bullitt was recently found in a junkyard in Mexico. Now, this is a one-in-a-million find, but if you keep looking you might get lucky.

7. Be Prepared for Setbacks

Don't stress if something doesn't fit or you break something. Car restoration projects inevitably come with setbacks. Don't let them stress you out — just be prepared for them. Take a step back, figure out a new plan of attack and get back to the project.  Don't feel bad if you have to take a break. Sometimes coming back to it with a clear head is the best way to move the project ahead. Have a plan ready for when you hit those setbacks and make a vow never to quit. The last thing you want is to sink time and money into a project that you give up on a few months later.

Restoring a classic car is a fascinating and rewarding project.  Just make sure you're prepared and have a plan in place for every contingency.

Scott Huntington is a writer and blogger from Harrisburg, PA. He is obsessed with his new hobby of smoking meats and other food, and never turns down the change to experience thee restoration of a classic. Follow him on Twitter @SMHuntington.